Food

This Mexican seafood restaurant opens in the spot of an old Wynwood favorite

The interior of Cha Cha Cha, a Mexican seafood restaurant in the former space of Beaker & Gray.
The interior of Cha Cha Cha, a Mexican seafood restaurant in the former space of Beaker & Gray.

When Patricio Hernandez Pons and his partners decided to open their Mexican restaurant Cha Cha Cha in Wynwood, they knew it was taking over an iconic space, one that was formerly home to the beloved Beaker & Gray, one of Wynwood’s pioneers.

Beaker & Gray, which opened in 2015 and featured a New York-style vibe that drew locals and tourists alike, closed in 2024 after overseeing the neighborhood shift from an urban artists’ haven full of galleries to a magnet for upscale development.

And while Pons and his Apapacho hospitality group changed the concept and remodeled the space, they wanted to respect the history.

“We know a lot of people have memories of this place,” Pons said. “We’re trying to make it as special to them now as it was back then.”

Cha Cha Cha, which opened earlier this month, is the third location of the restaurant, which first opened in Pons’ native Mexico City 10 years ago. Later, a second location opened in Los Angeles. Pons and his partners in the Apapacho Group also operate the seafood restaurant and celebrity-magnet hot spot Loreto in Los Angeles.

The bar at Cha Cha Cha in Wynwood.
The bar at Cha Cha Cha in Wynwood. Cortesía

Miami had long been in consideration as another landing spot for the concept, which also features a weekend vinyl listening sound bar.

“We’ve had Miami on our minds for a while,” Pons says. “It’s one of the most important cities foodwise. We love the energy and the vibes and all the different cultures here. I’ve been trying to bring Cha Cha Cha to Miami and have been waiting for the right time, because this concept has been missing from Miami.”

The concept aims to highlight the seafood of Baja California, items like blue fin tuna or hamachi tostadas and aguachiles. The menu also features a variety of oysters, Gulf snapper and a lobster chalupa, as well as non-seafood items like ribeye tacos, orange carnitas and chicken enchiladas.

Chef Daniel Saavedra, formerly of the Los Angeles Cha Cha Cha, leads the kitchen.

The vinyl sound bar at Cha Cha Cha in Wynwood.
The vinyl sound bar at Cha Cha Cha in Wynwood. Cortesía

The menu is tight, a deliberate choice that Pons hopes reflects that “the best Mexican food is seafood from Baja.”

“There are no places in Miami that offer this cuisine,” he said. “This is a great opportunity to bring our style. Also, we were thinking that Miami has become too glamorous, too expensive. We need a place that’s more laid back, more chill, with good vibes where you get to know the clients.”

Earlier this year, another Mexican seafood spot called Ensenada opened in the historic Vagabond Hotel in Miami’s MiMo neighborhood, closing abruptly six months after it opened. Its location was nowhere near as visible as Cha Cha Cha’s, and that could make a difference.

And while many upscale restaurants are flooding into Wynwood, Pons said he doesn’t fear the threat of oversaturation.

“I think the neighborhood is still growing,” he said. “There are so many high-rises and offices opening up. I think that’s why a lot of restaurants see Wynwood as a good option. Everything is moving this way. I like the people here as well. They’re similar to people in L.A. — laid-back, not too glamorous, not showing off. We want to be the neighborhood restaurant for people who live and work here.”

The kitchen area at Cha Cha Cha in Wynwood.
The kitchen area at Cha Cha Cha in Wynwood. Cortesía

Cha Cha Cha

Where: 2637 N. Miami Ave., Wynwood

Hours: 6 p.m.-11 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday

Reservations: OpenTable

More information: www.chachacha.miami

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Connie Ogle
Miami Herald
Connie Ogle loves wine, books and the Miami Heat. Please don’t make her eat a mango.
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