Food

This top Wynwood restaurant just lost its visionary chef. What comes next is uncertain

The dining room at Kyu in Wynwood
The dining room at Kyu in Wynwood

Take away the innovative, prize-winning chef and the visionary restaurateur that made Wynwood’s Kyu Asian barbecue restaurant a hit — and what do you have left?

Miami is about to find out.

Chef Michael Lewis and partner Steven Haigh, who left Zuma to start Kyu, consistently named one of the best restaurants in the country, have been bought out by their original Wynwood partners. Lewis likened the takeover to losing a member of his family.

“I would be lying if I said there wasn’t emotion involved in it,” he said.

Chef Michael Lewis was bought out at his award-winning Wynwood restaurant, Kyu.
Chef Michael Lewis was bought out at his award-winning Wynwood restaurant, Kyu. Chef Michael Lewis

Lewis and Haigh will retain ownership of a newly opened Kyu restaurant in Mexico City. And the two are not abandoning Miami. They own and oversee Buya Izakaya + Yakitori in Wynwood and will operate their breakfast and chicken sandwich spot, Laid Fresh, as a ghost kitchen with the every-expanding REEF Technologies until they feel safe reopening a physical restaurant, Lewis said.

They both also plan to open a new Miami restaurant in the next 12-18 months, Haigh said.

“We are planning on keeping a very strong presence in Miami with another, brand-new brick-and-mortar restaurant very soon,” Lewis said.

But what of Kyu — named a James Beard award semifinalist for best new restaurant in 2017, among OpenTable’s 2018 list of best new places when it opened? The concept was wholly conceived by Lewis, who studied under master chefs Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Eric Ripert.

Lewis has left it in the hands of head chef Raheem Sealey, his right-hand man for the last three years. Sealey worked at Zuma with Lewis, trained at his side learning barbecue, and even opened The Drinking Pig, a roadside Caribbean barbecue pop-up in northeast Miami-Dade that has become one of the bright spots for Miami restaurants during the pandemic. He, his partner, Mark Wint, and his wife, Yohanir Sandoval, also work alongside one another at Kyu.

Chef Raheem Sealey (center) with his wife Yohanir Sandoval and his friend Chef Mark Wint, work at their recently opened pop up BBQ spot, The Drinking Pig.
Chef Raheem Sealey (center) with his wife Yohanir Sandoval and his friend Chef Mark Wint, work at their recently opened pop up BBQ spot, The Drinking Pig. Pedro Portal pportal@miamiherald.com

Sealey has plans to open The Drinking Pig as a standalone spot and if that happens, the future of Kyu is left uncertain. For now, Haigh said the restaurant they left behind remains strong. Calls to the restaurant, at 251 NW 25th St., were not returned.

“We left the restaurant in good hands, with a team that has been with us since the beginning,” Haigh said. “We hope everything continues to run the same.”

This story was originally published December 21, 2020 at 1:32 PM.

Carlos Frías
Miami Herald
Miami Herald food editor Carlos Frías is a two-time James Beard Award winner, including the 2022 Jonathan Gold Local Voice Award for engaging the community with his food writing. A Miami native, he’s also the author of the memoir “Take Me With You: A Secret Search for Family in a Forbidden Cuba.”
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