Flaming knives, deadly rum and Pupu platters: Why Mai-Kai is still a tiki legend
Hips still shake, and the drums still beat. Flaming swords still spin. Rum cocktails flow like a potent river, and the Mystery Drink - a powerful potion of God only knows what, served in a vat the size of your kitchen sink - still arrives at the table with the clang of a gong and a dancer.
Welcome to the Mai-Kai. You are now entering the land that time forgot.
OK, that’s not really true. A throwback oasis on busy Federal Highway in Fort Lauderdale, the Polynesian-themed restaurant is definitely part of the modern world. You make reservations online. GrubHub will deliver a Pupu Platter to your home should you be too lazy to leave it. Diners take selfies standing by the waterfall, in the gardens or holding up festive and potentially deadly rum drinks in the bar. And when the dancing starts, everybody hits the record button on their phone.
But the Mai-Kai is history. South Florida history, created by brothers Bob and Jack Thornton in 1956. Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise, because it was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2014.
If you grew up here, your parents and grandparents ate there. They probably didn’t take you because people didn’t take their kids everywhere in the old days (though there are kids there now, and they’re welcome).
Or maybe you discovered the happy hour deals after you got your first job. Decades of thirsty locals have made the Molokai Bar a popular happy hour spot, thanks to a half-price menu and more rum than is found in many small Caribbean nations.
After all these years, the Mai-Kai is still where South Florida goes to celebrate. Birthdays. Anniversaries. Engagements. Weddings. The fact that it’s Wednesday and only a Barrel O’ Rum will do.
So what brings people back? We have a few ideas about that. Here are a few of the reasons why the Mai-Kai will always be on our Broward Bucket List.
The Molokoi Bar
The old-school vibe here may be the best thing about the Mai-Kai. The 150-seat space is dimly lit, with water running down the windows so it feels like you’re safe inside while a storm rages outside. Note: a different storm rages inside. There’s live music and lively chatter. The bar isn’t sleek or trendy, and there is not a hipster mixologist in sight. For this we are grateful. The bar is closed on Mondays, but on other days happy hour lasts until 7 p.m., with most appetizers and drinks 50 percent off. You will never get the locals out of this place.
The rum drinks
There are more than 50 rum drinks on the menu. You can order a glass of wine, of course. But we repeat: There are MORE THAN 50 RUM DRINKS ON THE MENU. The most popular drink, according to the Mai-Kai, is the Barrel o’ Rum (you have the option of paying to keep the mug). Take a chance, but respect the descriptions (mild, medium, strong) and deploy Lyft accordingly.
The dining experience
Oddly, the food is probably the least important thing served up at the Mai-Kai. The most popular item on the menu is the Pupu Platter for two, with crab rangoon, eggroll, bacon-wrapped chicken and Tahitian cheese tangs. We have nothing but love for that crab rangoon. Other popular choices: steak, seafood, fried rice or a poke bowl (we recommend the tuna).
The general vibe
The Mai-Kai tends toward the boisterous and loud (especially if the table next to you orders the Mystery Drink). Knowing where to sit is helpful. There are eight dining rooms, with private dining rooms away from the stage that seat 150, and that’s where you go if you want a little more quiet (although the Mystery Drink rule is still in effect). Outside in the gardens, you might actually be able to have a quiet conversation. Maybe. The dinner show room seats 300 and is full of big parties, so save the important discussions until you get home.
The show
We have no idea why you would have dinner here without seeing the show, which began in 1961, which means it’s almost 60 years old. What else in Fort Lauderdale has lasted that long but the beach? Some of the musicians have been performing for 30 to 40 years. Also, we would like to stress that the finale includes a bunch of dudes twirling flaming knives and crawling over fire. For $15, this show is a bargain.
The Mai-Kai Trading Post
Foolishly, you didn’t buy that Barrel O’ Rum mug at the bar, and now you are filled with regret (also alcohol). No worries. Visit the gift shop and grab one there (or visit it online at www.maikaitradingpost.com). As a general rule, though, we advise: Always buy the mug.
Mai-Kai Restaurant and Polynesian Show
Where: 3599 N Federal Hwy, Fort Lauderdale
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday; closed Mondays; dining hours and showtimes vary
Reservations: 954-563-3272 or maikai.com