‘Elegant and understated’ is a Miami rarity. So is this Italian cuisine
Forte dei Marmi: ⭐⭐⭐ (Very Good)
Named after the jet-setty Tuscan beach town on the Tyrrhenian Sea, Forte dei Marmi is an elegant and understated addition to the menagerie of fine dining options south of Fifth.
Every detail from the namesake marble to the waiter’s crisp khaki uniforms to the cascading bursts of pink bougainvillea at the arched entryway adds to the always-summer allure.
Owners Riccardo and Tatyana Silva imported the two Michelin-starred chef Antonio Mellino and his son, 27-year-old Raffaele, to create a menu in the style of their family-owned restaurant Quattro Passi in Nerano on the Amalfi Coast.
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As you might expect, seafood is what’s highlighted at Forte dei Marmi, such as octopus charred with dollops of Sicilian caponata and emerald-green parsley oil. -
With a name like the Marble Fort, this Italian newcomer may sound imposing but the beachy space, some 120 seats divided more or less equally between inside and out, is stunningly inviting. -
A golden, skin-on branzino filet over a delicate artichoke puree with crispy fried fingerling potatoes is a study in simplicity at Forte dei Marmi.
As you might expect, seafood is what’s highlighted here. Most of it is imported from Portugal, but as Raffaele says, “I am very excited about the fish here, but I want to distinguish this by serving something different than you can get in other Miami restaurants.”
For those who can afford it, there is plenty to recommend this Italian summer fling all year round.
Forte dei Marmi
150 Ocean Dr., Miami Beach
786-276-3095; fdmmiami.com
This story was originally published May 25, 2017 at 9:05 PM.