‘Angel’ biscuits are like tender, buttery dinner rolls

Angel biscuits: A cross between biscuits and rolls.
Angel biscuits: A cross between biscuits and rolls. Flickr

As you plan for this month’s holiday meals, consider this recipe that consists of ingredients you likely already have on hand — no need for an extra trip to the grocery store.

“Angel biscuits” and “magic biscuits” are two old-fashioned, slightly hyperbolic names for buttermilk biscuits that contain both baker’s yeast and chemical leaveners (i.e., baking powder and baking soda). Typically, baked goods contain either yeast or chemical leaveners but not both. The unconventional combination of leavening agents results in biscuits that possess the best qualities of both buttermilk biscuits and yeast rolls: They’re either the fluffiest, most fragrant biscuits you’ve ever tasted or the most tender, buttery rolls you’ve ever had.

Best of all, angel biscuits are flexible, which is an important quality for any dish you choose to serve for the holidays. You can start making them at the very last minute, and they’ll be out of the oven in 45 minutes or less.

Or you can assemble and roll out the dough ahead of time, let the unbaked biscuits sit for a few hours, and then bake them once the oven has a vacancy. You can even bake them a few hours in advance of the meal; unlike regular biscuits, they remain soft and delicious even after they’ve cooled.

You’re Doing it Wrong is a technique column that instructs cooks how to work with certain ingredients.

Side dish

Angel Biscuits

4 1/2 teaspoons instant yeast or two 1/4-ounce packets active dry yeast

5 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 cup sugar

4 teaspoons baking powder

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (2 1/4 sticks) cold unsalted butter

2 cups buttermilk

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Combine the yeast with 1/4 cup warm water — about the same temperature as the inside of your wrist — in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and baking soda in a large bowl. Add 1 cup (2 sticks) of the butter and blend with a pastry cutter or your fingers until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add the buttermilk and the yeast mixture and stir just until combined, then transfer the dough to a floured surface and knead 5 or 6 times.

With a rolling pin, roll out the dough until it’s 3/4-inch thick. Cut into rounds with a biscuit cutter or glass and transfer to an ungreased baking sheet with the edges of the rounds touching. Gather up the dough scraps, roll them out, and repeat. Cover the pan with a clean kitchen towel or plastic wrap and let the dough rest for at least 10 minutes.

Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat (or in a microwave-safe bowl in the microwave). Brush the biscuits with the melted butter. Bake until the biscuits are golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve hot or warm. Makes 25-30 biscuits.