These ricotta and cauliflower stuffed shells feel indulgent and festive

Few ingredients work as beautifully in both sweet and savory dishes as ricotta. One minute it can be folded into pasta for dinner, the next you can be whipping up a cheesecake for dessert.

Although often referred to as a cheese, ricotta is technically a milk product made from whey, the watery liquid left over during cheesemaking. It can be produced from cow’s, sheep’s, or goat’s milk whey. Under Italian law, ricotta is not classified as a cheese at all.

Ricotta’s mild flavor and creamy texture make it endlessly versatile. One of my favorite ways to use it is in pancakes. Adding ricotta and whipped egg white to the batter creates pancakes that are exceptionally light and tender. To make them, sift together 1 cup all-purpose flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder, ½ teaspoon baking soda, ¼ teaspoon salt, and 2 tablespoons sugar in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, combine 3 tablespoons melted unsalted butter, ½ cup ricotta, ¾ cup whole milk, and 1 egg yolk, then stir into the dry ingredients. Beat the egg white until soft peaks form and gently fold it into the batter. Cook on a hot griddle or skillet until golden brown. I like adding lemon zest and blueberries for extra brightness and flavor.

On the savory side, ricotta transforms easily into a delicious dip. Blend it in a food processor with lemon juice, olive oil, fresh herbs, grated garlic, salt, and black pepper until smooth and airy. If you enjoy anchovies, adding one or two gives the dip a wonderful savory depth.

Ricotta is also delicious spread over crusty sourdough toast and topped with sliced tomatoes, fresh basil, prosciutto and a drizzle of olive oil. It makes wonderfully light gnocchi when used in place of potatoes, and I even stir it into meatball mixtures for extra tenderness. The possibilities are nearly endless.

For a Father’s Day brunch or lunch pairing, I would recommend the 2024 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc from Beaulieu Vineyard ($40). Its herbal notes and zesty acidity will cut through the rich cheese while complementing the fresh flavors in the dish.

RICOTTA AND CAULIFLOWER STUFFED SHELLS

Adapted from “Vegetables the Italian Way” by Giulia Scarpaleggia, published by Artisan an imprint of Workman Publishing a division of Hachette Book Group, Inc. ($35).

Author Giulia Scarpaleggia writes, “When you’re short on time or simply not in the mood to make stuffed fresh pasta from scratch, turn to the glorious oversized pasta shapes in the package: conchiglioni (jumbo shells), lumaconi, or paccheri. Their concave shapes and generous size are perfect vessels for all kinds of fillings, from a rich, hearty meat ragù to lighter combinations like ricotta and seasonal vegetables. Once stuffed, these jumbo shells transform in the oven, turning golden brown, bubbling, and crisp. It’s a dish that feels indulgent and festive, comes together effortlessly, and is perfect for cozy family dinners or gatherings with friends.”

Fine sea salt or Kosher salt

1 small Romanesco cauliflower (about 1 pound 5 ounces) or white cauliflower, leaves and hard stem removed

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1 garlic clove, smashed and peeled

Freshly ground black pepper

15 to 16 ounces ricotta (about 2 cups)

31/2 ounces Gorgonzola cheese, cut into small pieces

31/2 ounces provolone, coarsely grated

2 ounces Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, finely grated (about 1 cup firmly packed)

16 ounces conchiglioni or jumbo shells (45 to 50 shells)

Softened butter, for the baking dish

Handful of fresh sage leaves

2 tablespoons coarse breadcrumbs, preferably homemade or panko

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and salt it generously.

Meanwhile, break the cauliflower into small florets, halving or quartering the larger ones, and rinse well. Once the water boils, add the florets and cook until the largest pieces can be easily pierced with a knife, 8 to 12 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and let cool in a bowl. (The florets can be prepared 1 to 2 days ahead and stored in an airtight container in the fridge.) Reserve the cooking water for the pasta.

Warm the olive oil in a large pan over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and cook until golden and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the florets, toss to coat, and cook, stirring often, until soft and creamy, 10 to 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, discard the garlic, and set aside.

In a large bowl, mix the ricotta, cooked cauliflower, Gorgonzola, provolone, and Pecorino Romano. Stir until the cheeses are fully incorporated into the cauliflower. Taste and adjust the seasoning. (The filling can be made a day ahead and stored in the fridge in an airtight container.)

Bring the reserved pot of water back to a rolling boil. Cook the pasta until al dente according to the package directions. Drain, rinse briefly under cold water, and toss with olive oil to prevent sticking.

Preheat the oven to 400 F. Grease a large round or oval baking dish generously with butter.

Spread a little filling over the bottom of the dish. Stuff each shell and arrange them snugly. Top with some sage leaves and breadcrumbs, and dot with small pieces of butter.

Bake until golden brown, crisp, and bubbling slightly around the edges, about 30 minutes. Serve immediately.

Leftovers keep in the fridge for a couple of days; reheat thoroughly before serving.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings