These potato latkes with smoked trout and herbs are perfect for your Hanukkah party
Jews around the world will celebrate the eight days of Hanukkah (the Festival of Lights) beginning on Dec. 14 by not only lighting the candles on the menorah (candelabrum) but also by eating something fried. Hanukkah commemorates the great victory, more than 2,000 years ago, of a band of Jewish fighters, the Maccabees, over the huge Syrian army and the recapture and rededication of the Temple in Jerusalem. There, the oil lamp — filled with only enough oil to burn for one day — miraculously burned for eight, allowing the Jews enough time to prepare the oil needed to keep the eternal light burning.
It’s a joyous occasion and a time for parties and for potato pancakes (latkes). Biting into one of these crusty, lacy, fried pancakes completes the warm, happy feeling of this family-oriented holiday. In my family, we always celebrated the first night of Hanukkah with a latke party. They were eaten so quickly by waiting family and friends that it was difficult for my mother to keep up with the demand. These were the days before the food processor, so she used an old-fashioned box grater to grate the potatoes and onions. Latkes are also good beyond Hanukkah as a side dish with meat or for a special brunch.
Hanukkah has always been a somewhat minor holiday in the Jewish religion, but in recent years it has assumed major importance because it falls close to Christmas. The holiday is especially fun for children because of the festive parties and the gifts exchanged each night.
The Idaho potato, with its low moisture content and high ratio of starch to sugar, is the best selection for latkes because it fries up quickly and crisply. Its uniform size makes it easy to peel and grate. The potatoes can be scrubbed and grated unpeeled if you don’t mind a few bits of peel in your mixture. Cut the potatoes into 2-inch lengths to grate evenly and effortlessly in the food processor, using the large shredding disc and the pulse control. The onion can be grated along with the potato.
A tablespoon of lemon juice or white vinegar will keep the potatoes white while they are waiting to be cooked. Of course, the potatoes may be grated by hand, as my mother did. They should be drained of excess moisture before being mixed with the remaining ingredients.
Make sure the oil is hot before adding the pancakes. Form each pancake using a heaping tablespoon of batter, flattening it with the back of the spoon as the batter is added to the skillet. The thinner the pancakes, the crisper they will be. Fry, turning once, until golden brown, adding more oil as needed. Adjust the heat while cooking, but make sure it remains hot enough. After a brief draining on absorbent paper, serve at once. They can be kept warm in a 250-degree oven until ready to serve, but they will not be as good. Serve with sour cream or applesauce, or both.
Potato Latkes, Smoked Trout, Horseradish & Watercress
This recipe is adapted from The Farm Table by Julius Roberts published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Crown Publishing Group ($35.00) available online from Amazon.com or any online bookseller of your choice.
Light, bright, and refreshing Martini & Rossi Prosecco DOC ($14.99) is perfect for this holiday occasion. The wine complements the crispy, salty, oily latkes and the smoky richness of the fish with notes of apple and thyme.
2¾ lbs. Idaho potatoes
1 yellow onion
1 whole egg and 2 yolks
3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
1 tsp. salt
A small bunch of fresh rosemary or other herbs (parsley, chives, tarragon) leaves stripped and finely chopped
3 tbsp. butter, melted
¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
olive or vegetable oil for frying
Peel the potatoes and peel the onion, then grate on the coarse side of a box grater (or in a food processor as described above) into the center of a large clean tea towel. Twist and twist the tea towel over the sink, squeezing as much water from the potato and onion as possible. Transfer to a colander and season generously with salt. Leave for about 10 minutes so the salt has a chance to draw even more water out of the potato, then give it one last squeeze and transfer to a large bowl. Add the egg, yolks, garlic, rosemary or other herbs, and melted butter, season with pepper, and mix well until combined.
Place a large nonstick skillet on medium heat with 1/4-inch of olive oil coating the bottom of the pan. When the oil is hot, add 3 or 4 dollops of the potato mixture, gently press into shape and fry in batches until they are wonderfully golden, adding more oil if needed, roughly 4-5 minutes per side.
Dress the watercress with a little lemon juice, olive oil and sea salt and serve with the crispy latkes, homemade or purchased horseradish sauce, and thickly cut smoked trout or salmon. They may also be topped with the traditional sour cream or applesauce.
Yield: Serves 5