Harissa spices up lots of recipes, like this one for chicken thighs

From Sriracha to Tabasco to hot honey, the world of spicy condiments is wide -- and harissa deserves a spot on your pantry shelf. Best known for its role in Middle Eastern and North African cooking, this thick chile paste brings a fiery kick to countless dishes.

I first tasted harissa on a trip to Israel, where it was drizzled over roasted lamb and couscous. I was instantly hooked. Since then, I’ve discovered it pairs beautifully with roasted potatoes, scrambled eggs and even pizza. One of my favorite uses is incredibly simple: harissa mayonnaise. Just blend equal parts mayo and harissa, then adjust to taste. I also stir it into yogurt for a chicken or fish marinade, or mix it with ketchup for French fries.

Be warned: Harissa can be addictive. Its flavor and heat level vary depending on the type and number of chiles used, but a little goes a long way. While recipes differ from region to region, the essentials are dried chiles, spices, garlic, olive oil and salt. Some versions add preserved lemon, anchovies, capers or tomatoes. “Rose” Harissa variation includes dried rose petals or rose water, which add a subtle floral note that softens the heat and gives it a slightly perfumed, complex flavor.

Harissa works both as an ingredient and as a condiment, and it’s easy to find in jars or tubes at specialty grocers or online.

HARISSA AND LEMON ROASTED CHICKEN THIGHS

Adapted from Persiana Everyday by Sabrina Ghayour, published by Aster, an imprint of Octopus Publishing ($34.99).

With notes of apple, gingersnaps and lemon meringue flavor of J Vineyards Cuvée 20 ($40) sparkling wine from Russian River Valley blends deliciously with this spicy dish.

Ghayour writes, “This simple recipe is so handy and versatile, as it can be sliced and stuffed into pita bread or wraps and sandwiches for lunchboxes, shredded and added to salads, or used in stir-fries or rice noodle dishes. But it also pairs perfectly with steamed rice or naan in the same way tandoori chicken does. You can also marinate the chicken up to 48 hours in advance, or freeze the marinated raw chicken for use at a later date or for batch cooking.”

2-1/4 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs

2 heaped tablespoons rose harissa (or plain harissa)

2/3 cup Greek yogurt

finely grated zest and juice of 1 unwaxed lemon

Maldon sea salt flakes (or Kosher salt) and freshly ground black pepper

To serve (optional)

flatbreads

cilantro leaves

thinly sliced scallions

lemon wedges

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Line a baking tray with parchment paper.

Put the chicken thighs into a mixing bowl, add the other ingredients with a generous amount of salt and pepper and turn the chicken to coat well in the mixture, preferably using your hands.

Lay the chicken thighs on the lined tray and roast for 40 minutes or until sticky and charred around the edges and cooked through.

To serve, slice the chicken and serve in warmed flatbreads with Greek yogurt, cilantro leaves, sliced scallions and alongside lemon wedges for squeezing over.

Yield: Serves 4