Beans are an ideal meat substitute, such as the chick peas in this hearty stew

Beans are the emerging stars of the culinary world, featuring prominently in casseroles, curries, soups and salads. Cooks have discovered that beans are hearty, delicious, versatile, nutritious, and affordable.

For thousands of years, beans have been an almost indispensable source of protein, vitamins, minerals and fiber and have been incorporated into the cuisines of virtually every culture in the world. They are a wonderful alternative to meat because they supply high amounts of low-fat protein.

Home-cooked beans have a better flavor and texture than canned beans, but if you are in a time crunch and need to throw together quick and nourishing meals, keeping a variety of canned beans in your pantry is helpful.

Most dried beans should be hydrated by covering them with at least 4 inches of cold water and soaking them overnight. I add salt (1 tablespoon per pound) to the water to create a brine. This speeds up the cooking time and flavors the beans. If you do brine your beans, drain and rinse them under running water before cooking. Add 1 teaspoon of salt to the cooking water.

It’s unnecessary to soak the beans if you use a pressure cooker or Instant Pot. If you are in a rush, bring the beans to a boil, remove from the heat, and soak, covered for an hour. Minimize stirring because excessive stirring can damage the appearance of the beans.

One cup of dried beans normally yields about 4 cups after cooking. The cooking time varies with the bean type and age of the beans, but do not boil; cook beans at a gentle simmer for one to two hours. Perfectly cooked beans are creamy and tender, with the right amount of resistance to the bite.

This recipe is adapted from “Mother Sauce” by Lucinda Scala Quinn, published by Artisan Books ($35). The book will be available for purchase on March 11, 2025, at https://madhungry.com/mother-sauce/

Scala Quinn notes, “Cooked chickpeas freeze beautifully, so it’s worth your time to soak and cook a big batch, then store in 1-pint containers in the freezer. To use frozen chickpeas, defrost overnight in the refrigerator. Or place the container in a bowl of warm water, or in the microwave, for 5 minutes to partially thaw them, then turn the block of chickpeas into a saucepan and heat over low heat to completely defrost.”

Good acidity and medium body make CK Mondavi 2022 Pinot Grigio from California ($8.99) the perfect wine to brighten up and balance this hearty stew.

Chick Pea Stew

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

4 garlic cloves, minced

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

4 cups cooked or drained canned chickpeas (from two 15-ounce cans)

4 cups chicken broth, homemade or store-bought

One 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, coarsely blended

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 pound small macaroni shells, elbows, or ditalini pasta

Grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano Reggiano cheese for serving

Combine the olive oil, garlic, and red pepper flakes in a large saucepan and cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until the garlic begins to sizzle, about 1 minute (be careful not to burn it). Add the chickpeas and cook, stirring, until well coated in the oil mixture, about 3 minutes. Add the chicken broth, tomatoes, and salt, bring to a simmer, and simmer uncovered until the chickpeas absorb the flavors and are tender, about 20 minutes. (The sauce will be soupy, but the noodles will absorb some of the liquid.)

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Generously salt the water and add the macaroni and cook according to the package instructions (the pasta should be fully cooked and soft, not al dente).

Drain the noodles thoroughly and stir into the sauce. Serve in bowls, topped with grated cheese and a drizzle of olive oil.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

This story was originally published January 8, 2025 at 5:27 PM.