Often ignored, cabbage deserves star treatment

Cabbage doesn’t get the respect that it should, while other members of the brassica family like broccoli, kale, arugula, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower are all the rage.

It’s a pity because cabbage is just as nutritious as its “sexier” cousins. And it’s just the kind of comfort food we need right now.

Best of all, it’s extremely versatile and can be made into anything, including Korean kimchi, German braised red cabbage, Russian stuffed cabbage, classic America coleslaw and Chinese stir-fries.

Cabbage can be steamed, stewed, sautéed, braised, or grilled and also lends itself to fermentation (sauerkraut and kimchi). Its bad rap probably comes from the sulfuric compounds released when cabbage is overcooked, creating an unpleasant aroma.

If you cook cabbage correctly (don’t overcook), it will be sweet and aromatic.

I’ll bet you didn’t know that more than 400 different varieties of cabbage are grown in a rainbow of colors and shapes. The cabbages most typically seen in supermarket grocery sections are the green, red (or purple), and Savoy, cabbage varieties.

Green cabbage is the most common. When eaten raw, its flavor is rather peppery, but once cooked, green cabbage softens and takes on a sweeter taste. Choose heads that are heavy in the hand with tight leaves.

Before using, discard the outer wilted leaves. Green cabbage can be eaten raw when sliced thinly or shredded as in coleslaw, or it can be braised, added to soups or used to make cabbage rolls. Red or purple cabbages are not as tender as green or white varieties. Generally, red cabbage can be used interchangeably with green cabbage but may take longer to cook. When shredded, it makes a colorful addition to coleslaw or green salads.

Red cabbage is commonly used in the side dish of sweet and sour sautéed cabbage and apples traditionally served with poultry or pork.

Savoy cabbage has loose deep green crinkly leaves and has a superb, mild flavor and texture. It can be used in much the same way as other cabbage. It’s terrific in stir-fries and soups, and because its leaves are more pliable, it makes an excellent wrapper for stuffed cabbage rolls. Choose heads that are compact and tight, but with a little more give because of the wrinkled leaves.

Fish Tacos with Cilantro Slaw from Caroline Williams

Adapted from Meals that Heal by Carolyn Williams, Tiller Press ($22.99).

Sterling Vineyards Blanc de Blancs 2016 ($28.) sparkling wine makes a surprising match with tacos. Its apple and citrus notes and perky acidity make it a very tasty choice to harmonize with the cumin and cilantro flavors in the tacos.

Serves 4

1 (10-ounce) bag angel hair coleslaw mix or thinly sliced green cabbage (about 4 cups)

⅓ cup thinly sliced scallions

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

5 teaspoons olive oil

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 pound mahi mahi or snapper fillets

1 teaspoon All-Purpose Taco Seasoning (below) or store-bought organic taco seasoning

8 (6-inch) corn tortillas

Place the coleslaw, scallions, and cilantro in a large bowl. Add the lime juice, 1 tablespoon of the oil, and 1⁄4 teaspoon of the salt; toss well to combine.

Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Add the remaining 2 teaspoons oil to the pan; swirl to coat. Sprinkle the fish evenly with the taco seasoning and remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon salt. Add the fish to the pan; cook for 3 minutes on each side or until the fish flakes easily when tested with a fork, or to the desired degree of doneness. Remove from the heat and cut the fish into bite-size pieces. Warm the tortillas according to the package directions. Spoon about 1⁄4 cup cabbage mixture down the center of each tortilla. Divide the fish evenly among the tortillas; fold in half. Serve the tacos with the remaining cabbage mixture.

Serves 4

All-Purpose Taco Seasoning from Caroline Williams

1/4 cup chili powder

2 tablespoons ground cumin

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon paprika

1 tablespoon garlic powder

1 tablespoon cornstarch

2 teaspoons dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Stir together all the ingredients in a small bowl.

Store in a jar or airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 months.

Makes 2/3 Cup

This story was originally published April 15, 2020 at 4:30 PM.