Tangy, thick Middle Eastern labneh gaining a foothold of popularity

Middle Eastern food has been stimulating our appetite for a while now, with the global hummus (chickpea puree) obsession, and za’atar (dried herb mixture) readily found in spice cabinets everywhere.

Now, tangy and thick labneh (pronounced leb-nay) -- a favorite all over the Mediterranean and beyond -- may be ready to take its place in the spotlight. I think of it as a cross between yogurt and cheese, sort of like whipped cream cheese only tangier.

Labneh can be used anywhere you would put a spoonful of sour cream. Just like Greek yogurt, it is made by straining yogurt until it loses most of its liquid. You can buy labneh at Middle Eastern markets like Daily Bread, but it’s cheaper and extremely easy to make your own.

You need full-fat Greek yogurt (no low-fat or fat-free yogurt in this recipe) and a little salt. Stir ¼ teaspoon salt into each cup of yogurt (4 cups yogurt will yield 2 cups labneh), place it in two layers of cheesecloth and hang from the kitchen faucet. After 24 hours the whey strains out, leaving you with a delightfully thick spreadable cheese.

Labneh pairs equally well with sweet or savory flavors. Israeli chef Yotam Ottolenghi rhapsodizes about uses for labneh in his iconic book “Plenty More.”

“I am obsessive about labneh. I like it on its own, spread on a plate, drizzled with olive oil, sprinkled with za’atar and chile flakes, and served with warm pita. I also have it with grilled vegetables or dotted in a fresh tomato and cucumber salad. I serve it with roasted lamb chops or fried fish and even as a dessert sweetened with confectioners’ sugar and orange blossom syrup and accompanied with baked fruit.”

Unlike sour cream, labneh does not curdle at high temperatures, making it very useful for cooking.

Spicy Chickpea and Herb Salad over Olive Oil Labneh

This recipe is adapted from Eat Cool for Hot Days by Vanessa Seder, Rizzoli New York ($39.95).

This Middle Eastern salad is excellent alongside chicken or fish. The creamy chickpeas, tangy labneh, parsley, rosemary, and spicy lemons pair well with a light to medium-bodied wine with good acidity like a Martini & Rossi Sparkling Rosé ($14.99). The acidity in the wine matches the lemon’s acidity, while the wine’s fruity characteristics balance the herbs, and the bubbles add a nice contrast of texture to the chickpeas.

2 cups labneh or whole milk plain Greek yogurt

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided

¾ teaspoon sea salt

2 (15.5-ounce) cans chickpeas, drained, rinsed, then drained again

1½ cups chopped seedless cucumber

1 large red bell pepper, stem removed, seeded, and chopped (about 1¼ cups)

⅓ cup oil-cured olives, pitted and sliced

1 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary

2 tablespoons chopped preserved lemon peel from Quick and Spicy Mediterranean Lemon Pickles (see recipe below)

¼ cup pulp and juice from Quick and Spicy Mediterranean Lemon Pickles

1 to 3 teaspoons finely chopped jalapeño chile, to taste

Place the labneh, 4 tablespoons of the olive oil, and the salt in a medium bowl and stir until completely smooth.

In a large bowl, combine the chickpeas, cucumber, bell pepper, olives, parsley, rosemary, lemon peel, lemon pickle juice, jalapeño, and remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Gently toss to combine.

Place about ½ cup labneh in the middle of each of 4 plates. Press a spoon in the middle of the mound and move out in a swiping motion to create a swirl on the plate. Top each plate with a mound of the chickpea salad. Serve immediately.

Yield: 4 servings

Quick and Spicy Mediterranean Lemon Pickles (Preserved Lemons)

4 whole lemons, washed well and dried

3 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons sea salt

1 cup water

Halve each lemon crosswise, then cut each half into 8 (1-inch) pieces and place in a medium saucepan.

Add the sugar, salt, and water. Stir to combine and bring to a boil over medium heat. When a rolling boil is reached (after about 7 minutes), reduce the heat to a simmer.

Cook until the lemon skin is tender, 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer to a bowl to cool slightly.

Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.

Yield: Makes 3 cups pickles plus brine