Florida Keys

Is Fantasy Fest too nude? What ‘clean’ means for Key West’s let-it-all-hang-out party

What’s Fantasy Fest without letting it all hang out?

Key West is talking about it again.

The party that takes over the Southernmost City for more than a week in October is known for its flashy floats and over-the-top costumes — and also the naked and nearly naked. While nudity is illegal on city streets, even during Fantasy Fest, private parts sometimes go public as body paint barely contains the big reveal.

But this year, Key West leaders have a vision: Fantasy Fest as a “clean” event.

“Cleaner means no nudity,” Mayor Teri Johnston said. “We get a considerable number of complaints.”

READ MORE: Fantasy Fest survived even without the main events. Here’s how that happened

The huge event started small in 1979 and now draws 75,000 people for the week of revelry on the small island. Fantasy Fest is famous for costumes, parades and adults-only parties.

At events like the private Kinky Carnival at a Duval Street restaurant, Key West becomes the naked city. But the issue is more when people let it hang out in public.

“We don’t want to see you naked on the streets,” the mayor said.

In Key West, nudity can mean different things to different people.

The city’s legal definition is spelled out by local law: Men and women need to keep their bottoms on at all times in public, and women must cover their nipples on the street. And a “code of conduct” organizers distribute to hotels and other businesses around the island reminds visitors to keep most of their clothes on.

During Fantasy Fest week, people in body paint are not considered nude if they cover their privates — no bottomless parading allowed. Body painters need to do their work behind screens. And painted people are supposed to stay within the boundaries of the so-called “Fantasy Zone” along Duval Street and not wander into Publix.

But will Key West make any significant changes to Fantasy Fest beyond a renewed message to cover up? So far, aside from the warnings and a retreat to discuss the event, leaders haven’t approved new restrictions or ordered more enforcement.

Fantasy Fest nudity issues tend to pop up in conversation every few years, and they have surfaced again with the latest messages from the mayor and others. Johnston says the city must get the word out to visitors to cover up outside.

No argument from Fantasy Fest: “We fully support promoting it as a costumed event,” said Nadene Grossman Orr, whose company We’ve Got the Keys has produced the festivities since 2017.

Fantasy Fest, of course, is much more than costumes or a public peep show. The annual Headdress Ball is an elegant party where artists compete to make the perfect crown. The Fantasy Fest king and queen contests raise money for charity.

And it’s fun. You’ll see troupes like the people who dressed as chickens dancing to Abba’s “Dancing Queen.” In 2019, a huge flash mob did the zombie moves in Michael Jackson’s “Thriller” outside the Green Parrot bar.

Fantasy Fest has a different theme each year. This year, it’s “Cult Classics and Cartoon Chaos.”

A Conch’s eye view of Fantasy Fest

But to Harry Bethel Sr., a city commissioner from 1991 to 2007 and a lifelong Key West resident, Fantasy Fest doesn’t represent his island home. And he isn’t interested in parsing the meaning of nudity.

“There’s only one definition,” Bethel said. “You’re nude, you have no clothes on.”

Bethel’s family goes back several generations in Key West. He’s proud to say he has never been to Fantasy Fest but keeps track of what goes on and sees the photos.

“It’s an absolute disgrace to our community,” Bethel said. “I don’t think we need Fantasy Fest.”

Bethel’s perspective is shared by some born-and-raised Key West people called “Conchs,” who wouldn’t think to go downtown during those 10 days in October. They rather head to the water for some good fishing and fill the stands at the city’s baseball fields for their kids’ games.

Don’t expect local chef Martin Liz to turn up at Fantasy Fest, which this year is set for Oct. 21-30. For years, Liz has left his hometown every October to avoid the event. This year, Liz will head to Tennessee.

Fantasy Fest helps some in Key West earn a livelihood, Liz said. But he’d like to see the wild side contained to lower Duval Street.

“I saw it progressively get a lot worse, or vulgar,” said Liz, 43, who owns Key West Personal Chef catering. “It’s taken over the whole town.”

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Changes to Fantasy Fest coming?

Changes to clean up Fantasy Fest seem to be more a state of mind this year rather than any new laws. Leaders want to see an event that focuses on Key West history and culture.

During a “leadership retreat” last year, Key West city commissioners agreed that Fantasy Fest was one of their most pressing issues.

“City leadership believes it is time to revamp Fantasy Fest,” according to notes from the retreat. “There is widespread agreement amongst commissioners and senior staff to transform the event into a positive, clean festival enjoyed by both residents and visitors.”

Nudity made the top of the problem list, but the city also addressed the costs of preparation, safety concerns and a lack of staff to cover it all. Many local businesses don’t profit from Fantasy Fest, commissioners noted. And while the event raises money for nonprofits, “it is time for change and a revival of the event,” they agreed.

Commissioners also suggested asking businesses to pitch in for a new “adopt a police officer or firefighter” fund to help pay for services.

Joe Carter, who lives in Key West, has been doing body painting at Fantasy Fest for nearly 30 years. Yes, he’s seen it all. But he doesn’t believe Fantasy Fest has suddenly become raunchy.

“I call it a ‘moral majority’ that’s offended by what goes on down there,” Carter said. “The reality is it’s been going on down there forever. It’s not something new.”

Carter recalls wilder times years back.

“There was probably more decadence before social media.”

Participants partake in the 2017 Fantasy Fest parade as they make their way down Duval Street in Key West on Saturday, Oct. 28, 2017.
Participants partake in the 2017 Fantasy Fest parade as they make their way down Duval Street in Key West on Saturday, Oct. 28, 2017. MATIAS J. OCNER mocner@miamiherald.com

Why Fantasy Fest got started

Fantasy Fest was made for tourists. Some compare it to Mardi Gras in New Orleans, but it lacks that tradition’s historic and cultural significance. Fat Tuesday has been a state holiday in Louisiana since 1875. And a Fantasy Fest parade would never be mistaken for the extravagant ones that roll through New Orleans during Carnival season.

After modest beginnings, Fantasy Fest has grown into one of the largest tourist draws in the Florida Keys. A group of Key West business owners in the late ‘70s dreamed up the event to fill the fall tourism drought. Key West no longer struggles with a dead season, but downtown businesses can usually count on Fantasy Fest for a big boost.

Despite her message on cleaning it up, Key West’s mayor is a Fantasy Fest fan.

Johnston takes part in the two main parades: the huge one on the last Saturday of Fantasy Fest and the Masquerade March, known as the locals parade. In 2013, Johnston and her crew spent about $10,000 to build a Batman-themed float that took first prize.

“I was Sarah Palin one year,” she said.

Fantasy Fest 2019 celebrated the 40th anniversary of the 10-day party in Key West that includes a Saturday night parade.
Fantasy Fest 2019 celebrated the 40th anniversary of the 10-day party in Key West that includes a Saturday night parade. Courtesy of Fantasy Fest

What’s ahead for Fantasy Fest?

In 2020, the pandemic canceled Fantasy Fest. It returned last year, but in a smaller way, without parades or a street fair or Zombie Bike ride. This year, the big party will be back in full. Tinkering with Fantasy Fest in its return isn’t smart, warned one resident who loves the event.

“The more rules they make and the more decisions to change it, the more they’re going to kill it,” said Dave Strobele, who moved to Key West 12 years ago from Miami and runs Dave’s Not Here Man smoke shop on Greene Street. He closes the week of Fantasy Fest to participate.

As for what people wear — or don’t wear — on the streets, Strobele offered a simple solution.

“If you don’t want to see it, don’t go,” he said. “You can always turn your head in a different direction.”

This story was originally published April 27, 2022 at 10:09 AM.

Gwen Filosa
Miami Herald
Gwen Filosa covers Key West and the Lower Florida Keys for FLKeysNews.com and the Miami Herald and lives in Key West. She was part of the staff at the New Orleans Times-Picayune that in 2005 won two Pulitzer Prizes for coverage of Hurricane Katrina. She graduated from Indiana University.
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