Eight is enough: A Calle Ocho guide
Known as the main route that crosses the historic neighborhood of Little Havana, Calle Ocho is teeming with restaurants, galleries, theaters and nightclubs that represent the culture and customs brought by the Cuban community to the city. When you go, it’s best to park and make travel by foot – but don’t expect it to be like a stroll down Fifth Ave: You’re not going to see amazing architecture or big skyscrapers here: the main attraction is the people and the cozy businesses. Don’t be shy, talk to the locals! Even though the demography has changed in Little Havana (now, some call it Little Managua), the Cuban culture is still very present.
Máximo Gómez Park
Also known as “Parque del Dominó” or Domino Park, it would only be a common square with cement tables if it wasn’t for the characters that come here every day to play this popular game. The place comes to life with the players themselves — mostly old school Cubans — who put that certain flavor into every domino game. Tourists from all over the world visit this park, but the best part is talking to the players. They will explain the game to the curious and will even pose for a picture as a memento.
If you turn the corner, you can’t miss the walk of the stars in Little Havana. Here you can find the stars of your favorite Latin celebrities like Celia Cruz, Lucía Méndez, Willy Chirino and other famous Latinos from today and yesterday. On Calle Ocho and 13th Avenue, you’ll find a monument in honor to the Bay of Pigs heroes and another for the poet and “Apostle of Cuban Independence” José Martí. One of Martí’s famous quotes is engraved on the bust: “La libertad no se mendiga. Se conquista con el filo de un machete” (“Freedom is not begged for. It is conquered with the edge of the machete”).
Piñarenos
Getting hot while enjoying the tour? Cool yourself off with a refreshing “guarapo” or sugar cane juice served in this local business, which has been here since 1967 and located very close to the Bay of Pigs monument. For those who would rather drink something more traditional, there’s pineapple, guava, mamey and all the fruit juices and combinations that you can possibly imagine. This business is like being on the Caribbean island itself, especially when don Ángel Hernández, the owner, cuts open a coconut with a machete for your refreshment. Looking for an economic lunch? Los Piñarenos could turn into your favorite place, as you can eat a delicious lunch for only a few dollars.
La Casa de los Trucos
Once your thirst is quenched, cross the street and into a different world. Inside La Casa de los Trucos (The House of Costumes), which has been on the same place for 35 years, and according to the manager, was located in Cuba 100 years ago, you’ll be surrounded by masks and costumes in all styles and colors. If you’re looking for a sexy costume to satisfy your partner’s fantasies, this is the place to find it. Here, you can browse through nurse, convict, biker and even nun costumes. And there are costumes for the guys, too.
Molina Fine Art
Enter Luis Molina’s gallery and you’ll be immersed in Afro-Cuban folklore. When you open the door, giant paintings of Guajiros, roosters and Orishas — or gods of the Afro-Cuban religion popularly known as Santería — will welcome you. “Everything that I paint has to do with my culture, which is a cultural syncretism, the union of two worlds,” said Molina. All of Molina’s characters have their eyes mysteriously elongated, a characteristic that sets him apart from other artists. The visitor should also take advantage of the opportunity to have long talks with the artist.
MGI Fine Art Gallery
In this studio-gallery, the visitor will find the artist either working on a new painting or having a conversation with a friend. Marta Ismail, the artist, will make you feel right at home in her studio. “I consider myself a surrealist painter, but I learned to paint Cuban landscapes because all the tourists come looking for something from Cuba. I am now incorporating Cuban elements into my surrealism,” said Ismail. We suggest visiting the galleries during Viernes Culturales (Cultural Fridays), the last Friday of each month from 7:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.
I Love Calle Ocho
This casual restaurant is known as Calle Ocho’s house of pancakes — or, rather, crepes. You can enjoy all combinations of crepes, sweet and salty, with the wine of your choice or a delicious coffee in a cozy ambiance. Located in the heart of Little Havana, this is the meeting spot for artists, poets and theater buffs. During the weekends, you can enjoy music by local and talented songwriters. Loved the place? Then take home a souvenir and show your love for Calle Ocho.
Teatro Tower
The Teatro Tower (Tower Theater) is one of the oldest historical monuments in Miami. It was built in 1926 for $110,000, a large sum for that period. Nowadays, the theater is operated by the Miami Dade College, and many of the screenings are free of charge. In addition to hosting a variety of unique screenings weekly, this historical landmark also gets dressed up for the gala presentations of the Miami International Film Festival.
Alfaro’s Gallery & Lounge
Here, regulars enjoy not only art but tapas, wine, guayaberas and sombreros — all for sale. There’s even a fitting room in the middle of the restaurant.
Cuba Tobacco Cigar Co.
You can find cigars anywhere, but in this Calle Ocho corner, you can watch how they’re made. Cigar makers with years of experience can roll up to 100 cigars a day, and while the he rolls the cigar you’re going to smoke, he’ll explain the process, step by step. This cigar factory has been in Miami for 38 years. “The tobacco seed is Cuban and we plant it on our tobacco fields in the Dominican Republic and Nicaragua. The tobacco is cured for three years in these countries and then brought here where our cigar makers twist it in the heart of Little Havana,” said Pedro Bello Jr., store owner.
Little Habana To Go
This souvenir store is included in all the tours that visit Little Havana. Don’t be surprised if you see a car full of European tourists stop here to buy all kinds of souvenirs. The star of the store could be a handmade lead chess board with a curious detail: its pieces are the Cuban patriotic army and the Spanish royalists. Another attention grabber is the Cuban dolls that recreate some curious characters from the island.
Sentir Cubano
This store is a box full of surprises. Here you can find food, all kinds of guayaberas, dominos, sombreros, cigars, jewelry, recipe books and books about the island. But even more surprising is the collection of objects that the owner has in a special section. Some of these objects could be worth $2,000, like the “Cédula de libres de color,” a document that the Cuban slaves used to buy their freedom. The slaves would walk around with this document inside a metal pouch that hung from their necks, which is also in the store. There are also newspapers from that time, pictures of artists, people from society and everyday scenes from Cuba. You can also find bills and coins from before the 1960s. According to the owner, Sentir Cubano has helped decorate many of the television producti
ons about the Cuban community, like “La Flor de Hialeah.”
Restaurante Versailles
It appears on practically every guide about Miami, so we couldn’t leave out the legendary Versailles Restaurant. This is one of the best places to enjoy authentic Cuban cuisine in Miami, and maybe in the United States. You can find “ropa vieja” (shredded beef stew), “picadillo” (minced meat), “moros” (black beans), “vaca frita,” “sopa de chícharos” (green pea soup) and other original Cuban delights. This is also the meeting point for the oldest Cuban exiles and it’s the place where the media comes every time something important happens on the island. On the cafeteria facing the street, you can enjoy a Cuban colada or ham and cheese croquettes.
Published: 2/09
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This story was originally published February 22, 2009 at 9:02 PM.