Food

This new Japanese spot in Miami is chef’s choice — but diners have a say, too 

The bar at Ogawa, the new Japanese restaurant opening in Miami’s Little River neighborhood.
The bar at Ogawa, the new Japanese restaurant opening in Miami’s Little River neighborhood.

Miami’s omakase craze is not yet over.

Venezuelan restaurateur and art dealer Alvaro Perez Miranda, who runs the Miami restaurants Hiyakawa in Wynwood, Wabi Sabi on 79th Street and Midorie in Coconut Grove, is opening an omakase-only spot in Miami’s Little River neighborhood.

Ogawa — the name translates to “small river” — is located just south of the Michelin-recognized restaurants Rosie’s and La Naturel, and is an intimate 700-square-foot space that seats only 11 diners.

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The size is traditional, at least for Miami, but Ogawa offers a different sort of omakase (chef’s choice) experience. There’s no set price, no set amount of courses. Usually, diners pay a set price, which can run between $175-$300 per person, for a set menu. At Ogawa, customers will have slightly more control over how much they’re served.

The decision “allows diner the freedom to stop eating when they want to,” said Perez Miranda, who was the first Latino in the United States to be appointed as Goodwill Ambassador for Japanese Cuisine earlier this year. “Guests can decide exactly how many pieces they want and indicate their preference of fish. This allows the chef to better customize the pace and offerings.”

Co-owner and executive chef Masayuki Komatsu, who was executive chef at Hiyakawa, is now at Ogawa in Little River.
Co-owner and executive chef Masayuki Komatsu, who was executive chef at Hiyakawa, is now at Ogawa in Little River. Michael Pisarri

Leading the kitchen is master sushi chef and co-owner Masayuki Komatsu, who was born in Osaka, Japan and has been the executive chef at Hiyakawa since 2020. He also served as executive chef at Morimoto South Beach and at Blue Ribbon sushi in Miami Beach.

The fish he serves will change with the season, most likely, but diners can expect delicacies like Ahoata (banded grouper); hata hata (Japanese sandfish); and hotate (sea scallop). The meal is a blend of nigiri, handrolls and other variations.

Co-owner and sommelier Luis Martinez curates the beverage program, which highlights sake and whiskey and blends well-known and small-batch Japanese brands.

The restaurant itself, designed by Perez Miranda, features wood, silk and gold leaf walls, featuring Nihonga art pieces by Ryota Unno. A private Japanese garden, which serves as an outdoor lounge area for Ogawa diners for before- and after-dinner drinks, was designed by Ikebana artist Akiko Iwata.

Ogawa owner Alvaro Perez Miranda, who’s also the owner of Hiyakawa, Wabi Sabi and Midorie restaurants. He’s the first Latino in the U.S. appointed as Goodwill Ambassador for Japanese Cuisine.
Ogawa owner Alvaro Perez Miranda, who’s also the owner of Hiyakawa, Wabi Sabi and Midorie restaurants. He’s the first Latino in the U.S. appointed as Goodwill Ambassador for Japanese Cuisine.

Ogawa

Where: 7223 NW Second Ave., Miami

Opening: Nov. 14

Hours: Dinner only Tuesday-Saturday

Cost: Ala carte items range in price from $16-$20

Reservations and information: www.ogawamiami.com or @ogawamiami

The counter at Ogawa omakase restaurant in Miami’s Little River neighborhood.
The counter at Ogawa omakase restaurant in Miami’s Little River neighborhood. Michael Pisarri

This story was originally published November 13, 2023 at 4:30 AM.

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Connie Ogle
Miami Herald
Connie Ogle loves wine, books and the Miami Heat. Please don’t make her eat a mango.
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