Food

This Miami milkshake bar designed to look like an ’80s kitchen went viral. Now it’s closing

Vicky’s House is being foreclosed.

The Coconut Grove milkshake bar that Lokal/Kush founder Matt Kuscher designed to look like his mother Vicky’s 1980s kitchen will close Oct. 2. But it’s Kuscher himself pulling the plug.

Kuscher is holding on to the space and turning it into Victoria’s Vinos y Vermouth, a cocktail bar waiting room for his next-door burger and craft beer restaurant, Lokal, that will focus on Spanish wines and ciders.

“Every few years, I like to rebrand them. It’s just out of boredom to bring more energy,” Kuscher said. “It’s still a Vicky-inspired place.

Many of Matt Kuscher’s childhood momentos adorn his new Coconut Grove concept Vicky’s House.
Many of Matt Kuscher’s childhood momentos adorn his new Coconut Grove concept Vicky’s House. PATRICK FARRELL pfarrell@miamiherald.com

Kuscher, who themes his restaurants down to framed portraits on the wall, originally designed Vicky’s House Milkshake Bar as a sort of speakeasy to Lokal. You enter through a replica of the “Bill & Ted’s Excellent Adventure” phone booth to signal a journey back through time.

You step through to encounter orange and yellow wallpaper, brown Formica cabinets, a mustard-colored bar and a pass through to a wood-paneled den, where you could play Super Mario Bros. on a Nintendo Entertainment System.

The bar, named for his mom, became a viral hit when it opened in 2017, even if Coconut Grove took long to catch on to the speakeasy concept. (The front was originally papered over with a for-rent sign posted.)

Kuscher eventually relented and gave Vicky’s a separate entrance. It became more of a curiosity, with $7-$14 over-the-top milkshakes named for 1980’s TV shows, such as the “Golden Girls,” with Golden Graham cereal sprinkled over the top, with a Twinkie.

The new Victoria’s will retain just a couple of touches from Vicky’s, with a framed portion of the retro wallpaper. But the bar will otherwise be reimagined, highlighting sipping vermouths, ciders and Spanish wines — all recent interests of Kuscher’s.

The made-over Victoria’s is expected to open at the latest Dec. 1.

“I don’t need the room to be a home run,” Kuscher said. “It just needs to be another reason to bring Lokal some attention.”

From the street, Vicky’s House looks like an empty storefront. Sure, you can go through the door marked “circa 1986,” but better to enter through the “Bill & Ted’s Excellent Adventure” phone booth in the neighboring Lokal.
From the street, Vicky’s House looks like an empty storefront. Sure, you can go through the door marked “circa 1986,” but better to enter through the “Bill & Ted’s Excellent Adventure” phone booth in the neighboring Lokal. PATRICK FARRELL pfarrell@miamiherald.com

Victoria’s Vinos y Vermouth

Address: 3190 Commodore Plaza, Coconut Grove

More info: Kushhospitality.com

Opening Dec. 2022

This story was originally published September 19, 2022 at 3:01 PM.

Carlos Frías
Miami Herald
Miami Herald food editor Carlos Frías is a two-time James Beard Award winner, including the 2022 Jonathan Gold Local Voice Award for engaging the community with his food writing. A Miami native, he’s also the author of the memoir “Take Me With You: A Secret Search for Family in a Forbidden Cuba.”
Get unlimited digital access
#ReadLocal

Try 1 month for $1

CLAIM OFFER