Food

Michelin predictions: Which Miami restaurants we think will get Florida’s first stars

Los Fuegos by Francis Mallman at Faena.
Los Fuegos by Francis Mallman at Faena. Courtesy of Faena

Miami is about to learn why Michelin stars matter.

The Michelin Guide, the world’s best-known international restaurant rating guide, will announce June 9 which Florida restaurants will be designated with one, two or a rarefied three stars. In the meantime, I’m going to take a guess at which Miami restaurants Michelin will name, given its previous selections.

Why this matters has everything to do with publicity. Florida, a national and international tourist destination, will now be mentioned in the same breath as New York, California, Chicago and Washington D.C. as the only other U.S. locations to be highlighted by the Michelin Guide, which started as a European restaurant rating system. It aims to tell diners from abroad that these restaurants have been judged by a standardized set of guidelines.

Ultimately, it’s about promotion.

The state tourism and marketing agency, Visit Florida, and the combined local tourism agencies in Miami, Orlando and Tampa are paying the Michelin Guide an estimated $1.5 million over the next three years to rate Florida’s restaurants. It puts these restaurants in a printed guide that Michelin sells and puts online.

So it’s in Michelin and Florida’s interest to make sure this first Florida guide is filled with tasty, tantalizing possibilities.

Beyond one, two and three stars, the Michelin Guide also denotes restaurants that are a great bang for your buck under the heading of Bib Gourmand. And it lists a sort-of honorable mention under the name Plate, as “restaurants where the inspectors have discovered quality food.” Pretty broad.

In practice, the Guide has tended to focus its attention on white-linen tablecloth restaurants with Japanese and European cuisine — French and French-inspired at the top of the list.

The Guide says that it does “not look at the interior decor, table setting, or service quality when awarding stars,” but its selections in America say otherwise. Only 13 restaurants in the United States have been awarded three stars: six in California, five in New York and one each in Washington D.C. and Chicago.

With the Guide’s track record mind, here are the Miami restaurants I think will be among the Michelin Guide’s first set of selections — not necessarily which ones I would honor in each category:

3-star candidates

Think Euro-centric, white-linen tablecloth restaurants like Eleven Madison Park and Per Se. These still hold sway with Michelin, so I believe these are in the running.

Los Fuegos by Francis Mallmann at Faena Miami Beach: Mallmann has an international name and a meal at Los Fuegos is full of flash.

L’Atelier: The late chef Joël Robuchon’s restaurants had 31 combined stars at last count.

Le Jardinier: Created by Alain Verzeroli, a protege of Robuchon, it’s refined, vegetable-forward dining

Naoe: No sign on the door, exclusive product and pricing, was recently named best sushi restaurant in Florida and award Five Stars on 2022 Forbes Travel Guide Star Awards.

The Restaurant at the Surf Club by Thomas Keller: Keller has three stars already at Per Se and French Laundry.

2-star candidates

Many of the two- and one-star choices feel interchangeable, but given their overall excellence, here are the ones I think can earn the two-star honor:

Amara at Paraiso: Michael Schwartz’s finest food, with a Latin twist, in his most upscale, waterfront setting.

Ariete: Creativity is key at Michael Beltran’s 6-year-old Coconut Grove restaurant that elevates Miami flavors.

Boia De: Fresh pastas, French techniques and only it’s strip mall setting could hurt it in Michelin’s eyes.

Cote: The original New York restaurant already has one star and Miami’s lavish setting could push it up a notch.

Macchialina: Siblings Michael and Jacqueline Pirolo have made this a home-run Italian spot for almost a decade on Miami Beach.

Orno: Niven Patel makes his broadest food but in its most upscale setting. Unsurprising should his tropical-themed Mamey make this list instead or as well.

1-star candidates

Cafe La Trova: James Beard winner Michelle Bernstein puts her spin on classic Cuban food.

Carbone: The New York location has a star though its Miami Beach location has received mixed reviews.

Fiola: Again, if previous stars count, its Washington D.C. star could carry sway here.

Ghee Indian Kitchen: Patel’s original spot has the strongest of his three restaurants’ menus in the most casual setting.

Itamae: The outdoor-only location is something that could move it down the list. It could easily be a two-star spot.

Luca Osteria: If indeed food is what counts the most, Luca, with its simple setting, could grab one or two stars.

Makoto: A lavish new Bal Harbour Shops space for some of Miami’s most lavish Japanese cuisine.

Michael’s Genuine: A classic is a classic. It’s redesigned interior could also move it higher up the list.

Nave: Beltran’s seafood and fresh pasta restaurant is a hidden gem.

Osteria Morini: The restaurant group that owns the Miami Beach offshoot has restaurants with Michelin stars elsewhere.

Stubborn Seed: Jeremy Ford’s “Top Chef” credentials transcend his TV fame into his meticulous South Beach restaurant.

Uchi: It’s Austin original has been raved about for years but isn’t in a Michelin city, so this Wynwood spot could be its first to snag a star.

Zitz Sum: Creative, inventive introduction of Latin flavors into Asian-inspired menu could also be a two-star spot.

Zuma: The downtown Japanese restaurant that has launched the careers of many of Miami chefs is still a lesson in elegant sushi.

Bib Gourmand

Call this category the best bang for your buck, where the total bill could be about 40 bucks before tax and tip. Five spots I think could grab Michelin’s attention:

Awash: Miami-Dade’s only Ethiopian restaurant is also one of its best restaurants, served in a casual Miami Gardens strip mall.

Blue Collar: This spot defined elevated comfort food, using quality ingredients.

Finka: This spot in the western suburbs deserves a mention for combining Cuban, Korean and Peruvian flavors.

Lorna’s Caribbean and American Grill: Brown stew chicken, fried Jamaican dumplings, conch stew and jerk everything.

Smoke & Dough: My choice for Miami’s best barbecue that is served in a full-service restaurant.

This story was originally published June 6, 2022 at 3:59 PM.

CORRECTION: Le Jardinier was created by Alain Verzeroli, a protege of the late Joël Robuchon.

Corrected Jun 7, 2022
Carlos Frías
Miami Herald
Miami Herald food editor Carlos Frías is a two-time James Beard Award winner, including the 2022 Jonathan Gold Local Voice Award for engaging the community with his food writing. A Miami native, he’s also the author of the memoir “Take Me With You: A Secret Search for Family in a Forbidden Cuba.”
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