Here’s what the South Beach Wine & Food Festival was like in the age of COVID
The first food festival in America during a pandemic looks very much like a food festival in any other year.
The South Beach Wine & Food Festival painted a picture of safety as it attempted to put on its four-day event, starting Thursday, May 20, after postponing its usual February start. Organizers had extolled drastically reduced attendance to increase social distancing, mandates for guests to wear masks when they were not eating, COVID-sniffing dogs patrolling the entrance, temperature checks at the door and an online health screening.
It was mostly theater.
Guest zipped by the single COVID dog, Stryker, and tore off their masks soon after crossing the gates to the first event, Italian Bites on the Beach. Hip-hop thumped as more than 1,000 — about half in a usual year — crowded into lines under a block-long breezy beachside tent for bites from more than a dozen stations. For many, it was their first time around that many unmasked people.
“I’m amazed so many people are not wearing masks,” said Gene Nash, who drove from Fort Lauderdale with his wife, Patty, for the event. They were among the few, not including staff, still wearing their masks an hour into the event.
“We were very surprised at all the people not wearing masks,” said Patty, who, unlike her husband, was not yet vaccinated. Both got COVID last year. “But it’s good that it’s outside. We feel safe.”
An executive order from Florida Gov. Ron DeSantis banned the festival’s original plan to mandate proof of vaccines or a negative COVID test. They settled for requiring guests to fill out an online questionnaire.
Celebrities including Giada De Laurentiis and chef Mario Carbone, whose namesake South Beach restaurant sponsored the event, took selfies with fans like Paola Velez and Cristina Rey from the other side of a plexiglass barrier. A line snaked more than 50 feet to get a picture with De Laurentiis.
“I am happy to see faces. But I’m vaccinated. I worry about her,” Rey said, motioning to her friend.
“We’re outdoors so that makes me feel better,” Velez added. “And I’m trying to keep my distance.”
Tacos under the stars
Over in the Design District was another major opening night event for the festival, Tacos After Dark. Tequila, beer and wine flowed freely on the breezy, pleasant night at Jungle Court, a green oasis surrounded by designer names adorning out-there modern architecture, with a DJ tempting the crowd into moonlight dancing.
Taco stations were all around, with the Tacocraft blackened grouper taco the most memorable and the meatiest, as well.
Chicago restaurateur and “Food Network Star” winner Jeff Mauro of Mauro Provisions, host of the network’s “Sandwich King,” was the marquee name on the event. “People are out drinking, dancing, having a good time. It’s great to be back in Miami,” said Mauro, whose crunchy, spicy Giardeniera nacho chip was one of the zestiest bites at the event.
The night’s recurring theme was relief over being able to do things we took for granted a little more than a year ago. Temperature checks and honor-system health screenings were required at this and every SOBEWFF event, but once guests made it inside, the masks came off and the tacos and tequila were no match for a hunger that’s been building since March 2020.
“I’m glad we were able to pull it off,” said Festival Director Lee Schrager, making the rounds at what’s sure to be dozens of events for him this year.
Patrons were equal parts delighted and relieved. “I never leave my house,” said Coral Gables banker Bonnie Gillenberg. “It’s nice to be outside for a change and see people mingling. The weather is perfect.”
‘Whoa, this is weird’
The big throwdown Thursday night was the 20th Anniversary Celebration hosted by Martha Stewart and David Grutman. The event, which took place outside at the swank Fontainebleau hotel in Miami Beach, both kicked off the festival but also commemorated making it through the past year. After the initial temperature checks and filling out the online survey, guests entered the party and the masks were shoved in pockets.
Ryan Atkin, founder of luxury concierge service We Own South Beach, didn’t even think SOBEWFF would happen. He was ecstatic when he saw the banners hanging from street lights.
“It’s good to be out,” Atkin said over the pulsating rhythm of electronic music. “When it comes to the Food and Wine Festival, I’m always first in line.”
The same sentiment was echoed by Tanika Pack and Renee Hall, both of whom were quick to describe themselves as “foodies.” They had traveled all the way from Charlotte, N.C. yet fit right in bopping to the musings of Bad Bunny.
“This is the first time we’ve been out in forever,” Hall said.
The novelty of the situation wasn’t even lost on The Chainsmokers, the surprise musical guest.
“Whoa, this is weird,” said Alex Pall, one half of the Grammy-award winning EDM duo.
Whatever lingering rust from the lack of live performances in the past year disappeared rather quickly. With just nine words, the tone for the performance, the night and even the weekend was set.
“They let us outside so let’s have some fun,” said Drew Taggart of The Chainsmokers.
Smaller event, fewer worries
The Locals Only dinner was a calm, chill, socially distant affair that was likely first choice for festival goers that just aren’t ready for crowds. Fewer than 100 diners ate restaurant-style in the open-air Lot 6 pop up in the Little River area, with tables accommodating small parties that purchased tickets together.
The foodie-targeted event headed up by Zak Stern (aka Zak the Baker), featured eats by not only the local celeb baker but other star chefs as well.
Also on board: On and off screen partners Luciana Giangrandi (Carbone, Scarpetta) and Alex Meyer (LA’s Animal and NYC’s The Nomad), who together run Boia De.
Cooking alongside the talented trio was SoBe fest first-timer Carey Hynes, known for his supreme bar bites at Jaguar Sun in downtown.
“All four of us are local Miami chefs, local independent chefs,” said Hynes, masked up. “We aren’t part of these big-box groups.”
Among the various offerings: lasagna with North Florida rabbit; local seafood such as wahoo and red snapper; as well as mangoes galore. Dessert was handcrafted ice cream from Frice, which has a nearby stall at The Citadel.
“We wanted to highlight what we are doing down here,” Hynes said, pointing to the outdoor kitchen and the picnic benches set apart. “But we also wanted to work in a safe environment. I think we accomplished both.”
This story was originally published May 21, 2021 at 6:00 AM.
