Food

This Vietnamese food-hall fave just opened a Little River spot. Give us all the banh mi

Tran An Vietnamese Eatery is the first stand alone of Chef Jon Nguyen’s spot in the Politan Row food hall in the Design District.
Tran An Vietnamese Eatery is the first stand alone of Chef Jon Nguyen’s spot in the Politan Row food hall in the Design District. Handout

This neverending pandemic calls for carbs and we are here for all of them.

Vietnamese restaurant Tran An just opened its first brick and mortar location Saturday in Little River, to fulfill any and all bánh mì and noodle needs. A stand of the same name remains at Politan Row (formerly St. Roch) in the Design District.

The new fast-casual comfort spot is already generating buzz among foodies, who can’t wait to hit up the homemade offerings from acclaimed chef Jon Nguyen, who is also owner.

Named after his grandfather who passed down his beloved recipes, Tran An draws inspiration from the flavors and recipes of his family’s hometown in Hanoi.

The 750 square foot, 20-seater isn’t your ordinary noodle joint: Nguyen got his culinary training at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris and worked the stoves at Danny Meyer ‘s venerated The Modern in New York City.

A huge draw here: All meals are prepared from scratch. Translation: Beside the banh mi (savory, colorful baguette sandwiches), don’t sleep on another favorite, the traditional pho; the broth is prepared eight hours in advance to lock in all that tangy meets spicy flavor.

Other signature items include vermicelli noodle bowls; salads with grilled marinated pork; lemongrass braised beef stew; shrimp spring rolls; and Saigon crepes, paper-thin omelets filled with joy-inducing stuffings.

Nguyen admits that COVID-19 restrictions haven’t been easy (the restaurant is currently operating at 50 percent capacity) but thinks his “soul hugging” food can tame even the most weary 2020 survivor.

“It’s definitely a challenging time for everyone, but I also think it’s a time where flavorful food is one of the things that still makes people happy and can bring some joy,” Nguyen says. “We’re just here to cook for everyone, feed the community and bring smiles to the faces of our local Miamians.”

Tran An Vietnamese Eatery

215 NE 82nd St., Miami; www.trananmiami.com; Open seven days a week, offering limited indoor and outdoor dining, takeout and delivery.

This story was originally published October 13, 2020 at 6:00 AM.

Madeleine Marr
Miami Herald
Celebrity/real time news reporter Madeleine Marr has been with The Miami Herald since 2003. She has covered such features as travel, fashion and food. In 2007, she helped launch the newspaper’s daily People Page, attending red carpet events, awards ceremonies and press junkets; interviewing some of the biggest names in show business; and hosting her own online show. She is originally from New York City.
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