Shula’s steakhouse is still winning after 30 years. Here’s how it stays in the game
Coaching in the NFL and running a restaurant have one thing in common: You don’t do either successfully for 30 years without learning to adapt.
Don Shula and his Shula’s Steak House are proof.
Shula coached in the NFL for 33 years, winning more games than anyone else in history (347), completing the only undefeated season (1972) and coaching Miami to its only two Super Bowls wins and three other appearances on his way to the Pro Football Hall of Fame. He won with different quarterbacks (Griese and Marino), different receivers (from Paul Warfield to the Marks Brothers to O.J. McDuffie) and different running backs (though he never got to coach a great one after Csonka-Morris-Kiick in 1975).
His restaurant, Shula’s Steak House, has put up equally gaudy numbers as it turned 30 this year. It started off with a single restaurant in a country club owned by the Graham family in Miami Lakes and has grown to 26 restaurants across the country, including Shula Burger and 347 Grill.
It has done that by remaining relevant.
Running it as CEO is a former Michael Mina restaurants head, Bill Freeman. A former football player himself, Freeman also coached the No. 1 high school football team in the country, Oak Hills Christian, which featured the sons of Joe Montana, Clay Matthews, Wayne Gretzky and produced 18 Division I college players in a single season.
“To reinvent yourself, you have to bring in new thought in line with the foundations of the company,” Freeman said. “You can’t win without a good team behind you.”
In the kitchen, Shula’s hired an undefeated “Chopped” champion, Demetrio Zavala, who honed his skills under chefs with Michelin stars, including Eric Ripert at Le Bernardin, Daniel Boulud and Gordon Ramsay.
And Zavala has taken a page from the playbook of Shula, the coach. He adapted a classic steakhouse menu to include a 45-day dry aging program, vegan and vegetarian options, advanced cooking techniques such as sous vide — tweaking tradition menu items but preserving the flavors.
“You’re still getting the same flavor profiles but with little subtle changes to elevate it,” Zavala said.
Even the restaurant has been refreshed. The walls have been painted a crisp white, the ceiling a sky blue, brightening the once dark, clubby space. Though it retains the original dark wood chairs with the names of Dolphins greats — including the Don himself — engraved in brass plates on the back.
Here’s a look at five new dishes that keep Shula’s Steak House in the game.
Tuna Tartare
The steakhouse clientele doesn’t tend to be adventurous beyond steak and Cesar salad. But to attract younger diners, Freeman asked Zavala to play with flavors and presentation. Among those innovations is a tuna tartare plated atop what they’re calling an avocado “butter,” brightened with a zesty gochujang vinaigrette, ginger and daikon radish. A garlicky kale salad and a classic wedge with an umami-forward tomato jam are among other twists of classic steakhouse dishes.
Wagyu Meatball
Eyes turn toward the table where a server arrives carrying this dish under glass. Lift the dome and — voila! — the scent of smoked basil stems adds fragrance to one massive wagyu meatball stuffed with mozzarella, in a pool of San Marzana tomatoes. The richness of the marbled wagyu beef and the sweetness of the Italian tomatoes make for a hearty appetizer that could easily be a meal.
Mac & Cheese
Sides at Shula’s are generous in size and the new mac and cheese is generous in richness and flavor. The three-cheese cream (smoked gouda, parmesan, cheddar cheese) over the housemade pasta is packed with flavor, luscious and topped with a baked crispy crust to add contrast to a decadent bite.
Aged New York Strip
The 45-day aging program is available in all but the Miami Lakes location, at least until after the first of the year. It takes careful climate control to safely age the steaks. Under Zavala’s direction, the meat is buttery tender, especially when you order it medium rare as the food gods intended. Take Chef’s advice and slather it with the side of blue cheese-red wine butter and dunk occasionally in the side of chimichurri.
Warm doughnuts
Inspired by Thai doughnuts, these tender little orbs are just the right size to dunk in a series of sauces served on the side: crème anglaise, caramel and chocolate sauce.
Details: 601 Miami Lakes Dr, Miami Lakes. 305-820-8102, shulas.com.
This story was originally published December 18, 2019 at 10:37 AM.
