Food

Try these ‘Big A--’ ice cream cookies at this new Miami Gardens sweet shop

The new Ice Cream Heaven pairs Cindy Lou’s Cookies with ice cream made locally by a veteran of Jaxson’s Ice Cream in decadent sandwiches.
The new Ice Cream Heaven pairs Cindy Lou’s Cookies with ice cream made locally by a veteran of Jaxson’s Ice Cream in decadent sandwiches. @Kdavisphotog

Starex Smith put two things he loved together when he started writing about food.

Now he’s putting two things together in a way South Florida diners can enjoy: some of Miami’s best cookies and homemade ice cream for “heavenly” ice cream sandwiches.

Smith, who blogs under the name the Hungry Black Man, opened Miami Gardens’ Ice Cream Heaven, a shop that uses ice cream from a maker who spent years working at South Florida classic Jaxson’s Ice Cream, stuffed between two Cindy Lou’s Cookies, which are some of South Florida’s most decadent.

“I wanted to put together two things I loved into one great package that people would love together,” said Smith, who started his blog highlighting minority-own restaurants and bars after enduring too many “dining while black” experiences.

The new Ice Cream Heaven pairs Cindy Lou’s Cookies with ice cream made locally by a veteran of Jaxson’s Ice Cream in decadent sandwiches. They are then rolled in popular cereals and drizzled in homemade sauces.
The new Ice Cream Heaven pairs Cindy Lou’s Cookies with ice cream made locally by a veteran of Jaxson’s Ice Cream in decadent sandwiches. They are then rolled in popular cereals and drizzled in homemade sauces. Korey Davis Photography @Kdavisphotog

For Ice Cream Heaven, Smith partnered with Nikki Prince, sister of Miami record producer Elric “E-Class” Prince, who helped found soul-food restaurant The Licking (formerly Finga Licking, made famous by rapper DJ Khaled).

For the ice cream, he turned to Cleveland Smith, an ice cream maker for the last 40 years, who did a turn at Jaxson’s before he decided to open an upcoming Miramar scoop shop, Cleveland’s Old Fashioned Ice Cream (6933 Miramar Pkwy., Miramar).

The ice cream cookies then have their edges rolled in choice of cereal and they are drizzled with housemade sauces. They come in two sizes: Big Ass Ice Cream Sandwiches ($16) on cookies 6 inches across or “half ass it,” Smith said for a half an enormous cookie. The Half Asses start at $8.

The shop has other over-the-top items on the menu. The PC Doughnut and X-Rated Ice Cream Sandwich presses Cleveland’s vanilla ice cream, mixed with fresh strawberries and drizzled in caramel between a fresh-fried doughnut. Heaven also sells milkshakes, fried Oreos with a unique house-made batter and sundae’s using Cleveland’s ice cream flavors, including a vegan option.

Smith says now it is his turn to have diners weigh in on his food, but he thinks they’ll have positive reviews.

“This allows me a different perspective,” he said. “It’s about the creatives coming together to create something amazing.”

Ice Cream Heaven

17560 NW 27th Ave., Miami Gardens

This story was originally published December 7, 2019 at 6:00 AM.

Carlos Frías
Miami Herald
Miami Herald food editor Carlos Frías is a two-time James Beard Award winner, including the 2022 Jonathan Gold Local Voice Award for engaging the community with his food writing. A Miami native, he’s also the author of the memoir “Take Me With You: A Secret Search for Family in a Forbidden Cuba.”
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