Food

Latin hot dogs and BBQ with a Miami twist are coming to Kendall. Also, smoked croquetas

Smoked brisket will be one of the features at the upcoming Smoke & Dough in West Kendall, by the owners of Empanada Harry’s.
Smoked brisket will be one of the features at the upcoming Smoke & Dough in West Kendall, by the owners of Empanada Harry’s. Handout

Baking every kind of empanada from around Latin America is what made Empanada Harry’s unique in west Kendall, so they wondered: Why stop at empanadas?

Owners Harry and Michelle Coleman will expand their shop with a new next-door restaurant, Smoke & Dough, where they will barbecue meats and make hot dogs in a variety of styles found throughout Latin America and the United States.

“We want to take American-style barbecue and give it a Hispanic twist,” Harry Coleman said. “It’s what Miami is — a melting pot.”

So at the new restaurant, expect traditional barbecue, such as a brisket and ribs, but also dishes with a uniquely Miami twist. Picture smoked croquetas, brisket tequeños (a dough-covered cheese stick), barbecue empandas and, yes, even smoked desserts.

Smoked flan, anyone?

Smoked brisket eggs Benedict and pulled pork emapandas already are regulars on the Empanada Harry’s menu.

Smoke & Dough’s hot dogs will be uncured all-beef, nitrate-free, topped as you’d find throughout Latin America. Venezuelan hot dogs get pink sauce and a green cabbage slaw. Colombian dogs, a pineapple sauce and potato sticks. Chilean, avocado and mayo. And, of course, there will be a host of American dogs on the menu from Chicago-style to New York, with homemade pushcart onion sauce.

“It’s all stuff we love but that is hard to find here in one place,” he said.

And, because baking is his background (he helped his father run the Venezuelan Moises Bakery, a fixture on Miami Beach), Coleman will bake all of Smoke & Dough’s bread, including the hot dog buns. “It makes all the difference,” he said.

Smoke hot dogs.jpeg
Hot dogs topped in the variety of ways they are in Latin America and the U.S. will be one of the features of Smoke & Dough in west Kendall. They will also feature buns baked in house. Handout

“I love eating hot dogs. They’re my guilty pleasure,” Coleman said.

Coleman has been quietly experimenting with smoking meats the last two years. The couple recently completed a barbecue “crash course” with pitmaster David Bouska of Oklahoma’s Butcher BBQ, which was named the World Champion Barbecue Team at the annual Jack Daniels Grand Champion Barbecue in Tennessee last fall.

The restaurant won’t open until the Spring of 2020 as they build out the next-door space. But Smoke & Dough will offer several of their dishes (smoked turkeys, tequeños, flans) for the holidays.

And it will host several pop-ups of the upcoming menu, including a four-course barbecue that even includes brisket chocolate chip cooks. (“I know. It shouldn’t work, but it does. They’re addictive,” Harry Coleman said.) The pop up costs $39 a person and tickets can be purchased at a link in their Instagram. Details for future popups will post to Smoke & Dough’s Instagram.

Smoke & Dough

4013 SW 152nd Ave., west Kendall

More info: SmokeandDough.com, Instagram: @harryssmokeanddough

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Miami Herald food editor Carlos Frías won the 2018 James Beard award for excellence in covering the food industry. A Miami native, he’s also the author of “Take Me With You: A Secret Search for Family in a Forbidden Cuba.”
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