Ever discovered a trattoria on a side street of Venice and gone night after night because you became a local? That’s how you’ll feel at Gino’s Bottega Italiana.
It is a small space with handmade wood tables along a banquette on one side and a counter-bar on the other plus sidewalk seating. The food is modern Italian with attention paid to the quality of ingredients, both imported and local.
Partners are brothers Alberto and Fabio Ruzzon, Davide Moro and Ernesto Bermudez. The brothers opened their first restaurant six years ago in the Gino Allegri private airport in Padova near Venice.
Alberto’s childhood friend, Riccardo Canella is now the sous chef at NOMA in Copenhagen. He influenced the menu after doing a one-day six-course meal here last February.
Start With These Dishes
Get the Padova regional specialty of a soft poached egg in a drift of Parmesan foam with a heap of of shredded artichokes and crisp guanciale (pork cheek). Mix this with buttery bread crumbles and scoop up with a thin Zak the Baker bread crisp. The refreshing Caprese brings cherry tomatoes in house made tomato juice with small cubes of burrata and ricotta garnished with tiny piped pesto puffs.
Not many places serve pizza fritta. Here the dough is formed into a personal size disc and deep-fried. It gets blotted then baked for a puffy crust. It is topped in a slick of tomato sauce and smear of creamy stracciatella with fresh oregano. There’s also DOP aged Parma ham sliced thin served with a big round of burrata, good with a glass of Alessandro Viola natural white wine from Sicily. It is tropical and balanced with notes of citrus, white flowers and ripe apricots.
Share These Dishes
Everything here should be shared. Say the risotto made with perfectly al dente carnaroli rice with chopped mussels and creamed pistachios with bottarga adding the umami of cured mullet roe. Orcchiette Pugliesi is a bowl of pasta ears tossed with wilted broccoli rabe, minced anchovies and chile flakes topped with toasted bread crumbs.
Seppe al nero is licorice-like black nubs of cuttlefish, a cross between a squid and octopus in squid ink. The earthy sea flavor is countered by a drift of potato foam with crunchy bread crumbs. Or get the baked red snapper in porcini sauce with baby spinach. Gino’s beef tartare is seasoned with salt, pepper, egg yolk, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, capers and anchovies. On the side is house mayo, BBQ sauce, mustard and pickled cucumbers. There’s also rack of lamb with celery root cream and meaty cardoncelli mushrooms.
Save Room For Dessert
Get the dolce della Lello named for a friend. It brings a scoop of melt-in the-mouth cream cheese whipped with mango pulp topped with cacao cookie crumbles.
If You Go:
Place: Gino’s Bottega Italiana
Address: 6606 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach
Contact: 305-397-8296, ginosbottegaitaliana.com
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday noon-3 p.m. and 6:30-11 p.m.
Prices: Appetizers $8-$18, pasta/risotto $18-$20, entrees $25-$34, desserts $9