Is this new ‘modern Asian’ restaurant Miami’s next celebrity hot spot?
The team behind Kiki on the River — nightlife pro Roman Jones, Aris Nanos and Mark Lehmkuhl — has transformed the former Klima space into Mandrake Miami.
The Kitchen is helmed by Chef Jimmy Gallagher (formerly of Chotto Matte, Blue Ribbon Sushi and Nobu).
Will you catch a celeb sighting? Most likely, yes. The owners are used to hosting everyone from hip hop stars to celeb athletes at their other establishments and several TV personalities have already been spotted there.
The space
A three-section fantasyland of French-Asian noir composed by Kiki designer Mark Lehmkuhl with Christian Lacroix-upholstered chairs, Chinese neon and an oversized faux rhino head sculpture with the phrase “Me So Horny” flanking its whimsical taxidermy perch.
When making reservations request to be seated in the main dining room that is accessed via a hallway clad in Japanese cherry blossoms and features cushy banquettes and crystal chandeliers. The outdoor garden is romantic as well and offers a quieter atmosphere.
Be prepared to eat
Modern Asian dishes with creative spins. Prices are on par for South Beach spots with starters $9-$19 and mains in the $20’s.
Izakaya-style bites start things off with shareable plates of shrimp and scallop wontons steamed in chili broth, duck gyozas, and grilled Mediterranean octopus. The ubiquitous crispy rice topped with tuna is given a deconstructed spin here with skewers of lightly-fried rice and a choice of toppings including toro tuna, crab or octopus.
The tightly-edited sushi and sashimi menu includes maki rolls of Snow Crab California, spicy Blue Fin tuna and the Mandrake roll made with crab, Blue Fin tuna, salmon and Hamachi.
The “Alaskan King Crab and Uni Inaniwa Noodle” dish is made using Japanese udon noodles and topped with gold flakes while the “Sharing is Caring” section of the menu includes a whole fish tempura and a 32-ounce tomahawk ribeye steak.
Desserts could use some help as the only options were green tea ice cream and mochi ice cream as a finish.
Bottom line
The clubby atmosphere and Tokyo Bordello decor provide an entertaining backdrop to a solid meal of Asian-inspired cuisine.
Mandrake
210 23rd Street Miami Beach; www.mandrakemiami.com; 305-397-8036
This story was originally published February 25, 2019 at 12:29 PM.