A Fork in the Road: Maya Tapas & Grill

The tradition of small bites served with libations exists in many cultures, from the mezze spreads of the Middle East to the zakuska table of Russia and the tapas tradition of Spain, and the family behind Maya Tapas & Grill on Lincoln Road can lay claim to all three.

The patriarch, Rolando Maya, was born in Mendoza, Argentina, but his great-great-grandfather came from Syria (the original family name was Mayahh). His wife, Marsha, is an American of Russian-Jewish descent. After meeting in New York, the couple made their home in Mar del Plata, two hours southeast of Buenos Aires, where they ran a bar and dreamed of owning a restaurant. After their oldest son, Alejandro, relocated to Miami Beach in 2002 to work in real estate, his parents and siblings Sara and Martin followed. In 2008 they pooled their savings to buy a former sandwich shop, adding a kitchen and hiring Puerto Rican chef Hector Diaz.

Tapas at Maya are served here with toast points or pita. Try the provoleta, grilled provolone cheese topped with tomato and fresh oregano. It’s perfect for scraping up with bread, as is the brie baked in a small clay casserole with apple-honey chutney. 
Nods to Argentina and Spain include frosty gazpacho with minced onion and cucumber, chickpeas with chorizo, shrimp in garlic sauce and grilled morcilla (blood sausage) topped with marinated onions. 
Grilled jumbo scallops are served in a butter sauce that begs to be mopped up. Flaked grouper ceviche with thin slices of jalapeño and chopped parsley is a great antidote to the heat with a glass of fruit-filled icy sangria.

The kitchen also turns out such entrees as lemon-honey glazed salmon with sautéed artichokes and olive tapenade, roasted chicken with couscous, and slow-braised short ribs with fried onions. Sides include pencil asparagus, Manchego cheese risotto and Parmesan fries.
Early birds can grab breakfast or lunch (try the smoked salmon and brie pizza). Caramel-swirled cheesecake is as hard to resist as the friendly family vibe here.

This story was originally published July 1, 2010 at 4:07 AM.