The Who: Restaurateur David Foulquier draws from his Persian and French background as inspiration for this homey new spot in downtown Miami. Chef Nicole Votano (formerly of Crumb on Parchment) heads the kitchen.
The Space: The former Nemesis has been warmed up with upholstered benches, colorful cushions, antlers, cookbooks and Moroccan-style tables. Artsy locals, like folks coming for food after Arsht Center shows, and waves of diners from the neighboring Corner Bar have been early adopters.
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The Dishes: A global bouquet with Persian, French, American and Italian flavors. Prices are neighborhood-friendly with starters averaging $12 and mains $15-$22.
Free bread from Zak the Baker is topped with a daily-changing spread like goat cheese-avocado mousse and festooned with radish slices and microgreens. After that it’s on to composed starters like a cobia crudo with lemongrass-scented apples and jalapeños. The pommes de terre and wild mushroom raclette made with roasted fingerling potatoes baked in a cast-iron tin with loads of cheese is an homage to a dish the owner and chef ate while growing up. Persian-style chicken is made with a walnut and pomegranate molasses sauce. Vegetarians will be pleased to know there’s a cauliflower “steak” with toasted quinoa and pomegranate reduction.
Persian influence shows up again in a “sundae” made with saffron and rose-water ice cream and roasted salted pistachios. Bread pudding features chocolate croissants and Earl Grey gelato.
The Bottom Line: This chef-driven spot keeps things local and earnest in the former Nemesis space.