Food

This ‘Mango Gang’ chef helped elevate Miami cuisine. Here’s what’s cooking at his new Wynwood restaurant

Three, the new restaurant by Norman Van Aken, is among the restaurants participating in Miami Spice 2018.
Three, the new restaurant by Norman Van Aken, is among the restaurants participating in Miami Spice 2018.

Celebrity chef Norman Van Aken has returned to Miami (and he’s chosen Wynwood!) to open Three, a multi-faceted space that includes a fine dining restaurant, a rooftop bar and a soon-to-be-opened cooking school.

Known as the founding father of New World Cuisine, Van Aken has partnered with hospitality veterans Susan Buckley and Candace Walsh to oversee operations. The young new chef de cuisine touching every dish is Miami’s Miguel Massens, whose background includes the groundbreaking Napa Valley restaurant The French Laundry and Spain’s Arzak, consistently named among the best restaurants in the world.

The space

three-wynwood-600-522x348.gifThe dining room of Three in Wynwood.

A handsome dining room outfitted in blue velvet chairs, a mosaic tile bar, a 10-seat chef’s counter and a striking Frida Kahlo portrait by the artist Ashley Longshore.

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Someone looking for a refined dining experience.

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The cooking school will feature Van Aken and his wide net of culinary contacts, who drop by for cooking demonstrations, seminars and tastings.

Be prepared to eat

salad

Van Aken’s elevated Floridian cuisine — the culinary guidepost from which the chef hangs a variety of ethnic influences, from Caribbean to Latin to Asian. But since Van Aken is a student of world cuisine, constantly being inspired by his travels and interactions, we get Senegalese-inspired snapper (no doubt inspired by his pastry chef Mame Sow who is Senegalese) and a Vietnamese-style grouper.

Three is also one of a handful of South Florida restaurants to offer only a fixed price menu: a three-course menu ($60) with an option for dessert and cheese at an additional cost, and a four-course menu ($75) also with dessert and cheese at an additional cost.





Dinner starts with homemade bread accompanied by Vermont butter studded with spices and maple syrup.

hamachi Three Norman
Three, the new restaurant by Norman Van Aken, is among the restaurants participating in Miami Spice 2018.

Then it’s on to bites of wahoo tiradito in an aji amarillo sauce or a Thai garden salad with a tamarind-peanut dressing. Tempura squash blossoms are accompanied by brown butter honey and the cracked conch chowder is a Van Aken specialty with a heady broth made with saffron, coconut milk and oranges.

Larger mains include a wood-grilled beef striploin, squid a la plancha, a grouper in charred banana leaf with kaffir lime red curry and roasted duck with Anson Mills grits.

paindesinge
The Pain de Singe at Three.

Pastry chef Sow (The Cecil, New York) brings her Senegalese background to desserts such as the Pain de Singe, an olive oil cake made with cream from the baobob fruit, served with honey labneh ice cream.

The chocolate mousse comes with a cashew-coconut praline while the chocolate custard is topped with plantain ice cream.

Bottom line

Florida chef Norman Van Aken has planted his flag in Wynwood with an ambitious new project.

50 NW 24th St Ste 101, Miami
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