Steak 954

The goods: Restaurateur Stephen Starr, the man behind mega-eateries Budakkan and Morimoto in New York, graces South Florida with this slick steakhouse, appropriately named Steak 954. Housed in the ground floor of the splashy new W Ft. Lauderdale hotel, the restaurant is designed by Gilles & Boissier, the same firm that outfitted sexy Hakkasan at the Fontainebleau and Starr’s Budakkan. Expect high drama, which in this case includes a trippy tank full of majestic jellyfish offsetting the room’s otherwise minimalist décor. An intimate bar is a tony spot to get drinks before dinner or to dine solo away from the clubby main room. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame views of the ocean across the street while outdoor seating on the expansive patio will be perfect for dining in cooler months.

The grub: Classic steakhouse fare with a few innovative flourishes. Starr isn’t out to reinvent the wheel here, but he’s managed to creatively tweak the typical meat-and-sides formula just enough to keep things interesting. Start off with three spicy tuna tacos topped with nubbins of foie gras along with a plate of Kobe sliders (two mini-burgers, one topped with gruyere, the other caramelized onions). When it comes to the steaks, all of which are broiled at 1700 degrees for a crispy finish, there’s a dry-aged NY strip to a 16 oz. bone-in filet to those pricey slabs of Kobe. Non-steakers can choose from fish like miso-glazed cod and pan-roasted branzino and fowl like roasted chicken and seared duck breast. Sides include a heaping bowl of mixed mushrooms (hen of the woods, cremini, portobello) sauteed with butter and chives, broccolini sauteed with olive oil and lemon zest and seven different kinds of potatoes including the fanciest tater tots you’ll ever eat.

Desserts include a tame Baked Alaska (no flames table side, alas) and a crème brulee layered with coffee and chocolate custard.

Verdict: It may seem odd to drive up to Broward for steaks, but it’s worth it, if only to experience the high drama and ambitious eats of a Stephen Starr restaurant.

Steak 954, 401 N. Fort Lauderdale Blvd., in the W Hotel, Fort Lauderdale. 954-414-8333. Prices: Starters are $10-$22, steaks in the $40 range and sides $8.Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 7 a.m. till 11 p.m.

This story was originally published June 25, 2009 at 11:06 PM.