Geoffrey Zakarian tempts you to Broward with fruits of the sea
The space: A cavernous palace of oceanic delights. The 220-seat features 30-foot ceilings, a warm color palate of golds, whites and blues, custom-made banquettes in a mix of navy and natural tones, woven dining chairs and hand-painted table tops. The outdoor seating showcases a mix of custom chairs and benches, varied in color with natural steel and woven materials, all grounded by a fireplace.
The dishes: Coastal American cuisine. There’s an extensive raw bar with a rotating selection of East and West Coast oysters, littleneck clams, Alaskan king crab legs, and stone crab claws. Prices are skewed to the well-heeled with starters $14 to $25 and mains $27 to $42.
Start things off with raw marinated items, including a choice of Colorado lamb or tuna tartare; hamachi crudo with cranberry relish, cucumber, and apple; and marinated bay scallops in a melon broth.
Small plates of ricotta-and-blue-crab dumplings accented with celery and caviar in a lemon-butter fondue, and a Louisiana-style seafood gumbo with shrimp, crab, and oysters play with brasserie classics. Those looking to keep things simple can get grilled items such as Florida snapper and Atlantic-caught tuna, as well as a prime flatiron steak or organic heritage chicken. But if you’re there for Zakarian’s cuisine go for composed mains such as shrimp ‘n’ grits featuring house-made shrimp andouille sausage, artisan Anson Mills grits, and pickled mushrooms; a chowder of roasted diver scallops and smoked fish seasoned with fennel and pomegranate-glazed short ribs.
Desserts keep things decadent with a chocolate budino with cinnamon ice cream, a key lime pavlova and caramel toffee tiramesu.
Bottom line: It’s worth the trek to Broward to see Geoffrey Zakarian’s return to South Florida with this ode to the bounty of the sea.
Point Royal
3555 S Ocean Dr, Hollywood
954-602-8750
This story was originally published March 2, 2017 at 6:03 AM.