La Gloutonnerie presents highbrow French eats in South Beach

The goods: La Gloutonnerie presents highbrow French eats in South Beach French food by way of Mexico in South Beach.

Ambience: Taking over the former Au Pied de Cochon space, La Gloutonnerie is outfitted in Mad Men-style furniture, framed black and white celebrity photos, groovy wall clocks and globe light fixtures. A small market sells caviar, imported ham and duck liver while a raw bar stocks oysters, imported branzino, live lobsters and crab legs.

The grub: Classic French. Italian Chef Christian Testa brings a subtle Mediterranean flair to traditional dishes like chateaubriand for two and foie gras terrine. Prices are skewed to the one-percenters: Starters $14-$26, mains $19-$48 and cocktails $15.

Dinner begins with a basket of homemade mini-baguettes, cinnamon rolls, Gruyere puffs, pate and butter. Starters include escalope landaise, roasted scallops with silky foie gras, roasted artichoke hearts and a Bordeaux reduction, and porto brandade, scoops of salted cod with truffle oil-doused polenta. Pastas like linguini with shrimp, scallops and avocado and cannelloni stuffed with spinach and ricotta are made in house; fish options include Dover sole filleted tableside and turbot with tomato tartin; and beef dishes like Boeuf Bourguignonne, bone-in ribeye and walnut-encrusted rack of lamb cater to big appetites.

Sweet, fluffy soufflé for two (in chocolate and Grand Marnier) and black forest cake covered in ganache are gluttonous endings.

Verdict: Pleasing French food in a laid-back, quaintly retro dining room.

This story was originally published June 3, 2012 at 10:06 PM.