The Who: TiramesU, the former Lincoln Road stalwart, has reopened in South of Fifth under new management, a separate entity from Graspa Group, with Valeria Longoni at the helm. Executive chef Fabrizio Pintus runs the kitchen.
The Space: The former Gold & Pepper location on Washington Avenue and First Street is now a sleek, beige-on-white 75-seater with large windows facing the street and a view to the gleaming kitchen. A travertine bar serves Italian-inspired cocktails and snacks.
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The Dishes: Modern takes on rustic Italian. Prices are moderate with starters $14-$16, pastas $14-$20 and mains $28-$32.
Antipasti get things started with dishes of burrata in a pomodoro sauce or Flintstone-size baked marrow bones served on toasted brioche with caramelized onions. The pulpo presented tender octopus tentacles over potatoes and salsa verde while a scallop carpaccio is dressed with berries and citrus. Pastas are homemade and include ravioli with lamb short ribs, ricotta cheese and bone marrow au jus, a kale fettuccine in a rabbit ragout and a blue potato gnocchi with arugula sauce. Mains cover steaks and seafood with a filetto di manzo, an 8-ounce beef tenderloin with smoked eggplant and rosemary jus; Australian lamb chops; and a branzino served with saffron cauliflower. Desserts include, of course, tiramisu trio with a spicy chocolate shot, a mixed berries shot and a strawberry shot and a squid ink-infused lemon sorbet.
The Bottom Line: This Italian classic is reborn with a more ambitious menu and sophisticated setting.