The Who: Chef Michael Schwartz has revamped his fine-dining The Cypress Room into Cypress Tavern, which evokes a more-casual approach to dining. Chef Bradley Herron consulted on the menu as well.
The Space: The intimate dining room is still cozy and refined, with wood paneling, vintage print wallpaper and mint green banquettes, making it one of the handsomest dining rooms on the mainland.
Here’s what has changed: the taxidermy elements were removed (but one boar presides over the coffee station), tablecloths were replaced with thick oak table tops, checks aren’t presented on silver platters, rather old Florida post cards designed from photos on the wall.
The Dishes: Hearty and French-influenced. Prices are a bit gentler than the old Cypress Room menu, with starters ranging from $12-19, and mains from $21-44.
Dinner starts with crusty Zak the Baker baguette and butter. From there move on to citrus-cured wild salmon with marinated cucumbers, trout roe, crème fraîche, or duck confit with French lentils and bitter greens. French onion soup with melted gruyere and grilled sourdough is straight-up brasserie fare, as is steak frites: wood-grilled, 12-ounce Harris Ranch strip with a side of thrice-cooked fries.
Desserts cool things down with Meyer lemon curd tart and chocolate pot de creme with toasted brioche.
Bottom Line: The Cypress Room has morphed into more of a neighborhood spot with better price points and less-fussy fare.