The old Grove Isle spot is now Palmeiras Beach Club

The Who: What was The Grove Isle Hotel & Spa is being transformed into Palmeiras Beach Club at Grove Isle, and with it a new restaurant helmed by Venezuelan-born chef Alfredo Alvarez (formerly of Seaspice).

The Space: Taking over the Gibraltar space, this new incarnation still packs a visual punch with dazzling views of the bay and Miami skyline from every seat in the glass-enclosed dining room. On cooler nights be sure to sit outside, where flickering tiki torches provide a warm glow to the waterfront setting.

The Dishes: Mediterranean coastal cooking. The focus here is on seafood, with housemade pastas and steaks rounding out the menu. Prices skew high: starters $16-$24 and mains $32-$56.

Dinner starts with a basket of crusty French bread, then on to starters of grilled octopus with tomato confit or a platter of house salumi. Taglioni en brodo is pasta infused with red wine and dressed with short rib jus and a hunk of braised short rib. Artichoke ravioli are sauced with sage and lemon. Mains include a branzino with crisped skin, garlic broccolini, baby zucchini, grape tomatoes and baby carrots, and a 14-ounce Duroc pork chop with compressed green apples, glazed fennel, celery, shallot purée and passion fruit au jus.

Desserts like the Chocolate Feast with Valrhona crust, black and white ganache, chocolate soil, Grand Marnier ice cream, candied pecans and blood orange coulis will satisfy chocolate lovers.

The Bottom Line: Unbeatable waterfront setting, if you can swallow the prices.