The who: The posh Asian-esque hotel reinvents (or some may say restores) its signature restaurant into an upscale Asian spot. At the helm are Executive sous-chef Vijayudu Veena and Executive Chef Mathias Gervais who won the September 17 episode of Food Network’s Chopped.
The space: The dining room is still a showcase of sumptuous materials – from the cushy chairs outfitted in leather pillows to soaring ceilings composed of slate and brick. Make sure to request one of the tables flanking the expo kitchen where you’ll have a front row seat to about a dozen chefs work at various stations including wok, teppanyaki, and tandoors.
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The dishes: Modern Asian. The menu darts around Southeast Asia with influences from Thai, Indian, Chinese and Japanese cuisines. Prices are still posh with small plates $14-$26 and larger mains in the $30’s.
Start off with dim sum like the shrimp shu mai or the scallop dumplings with truffle cream emulsion. Hamachi with yuzu and mango and tuna ribbons with ginger and radish round out the raw fish appetizers. Thai specialties include a chicken coconut soup and a pad Thai while the tandoor oven cranks out garlic naan, a chicken massala and sea bass in a yogurt and tamarind chutney sauce. Peking Duck is served traditionally – with small crepes, strips of scallions and cucumbers and a tangy plum sauce. Two kinds of curry can be had – one with Korobuta pork and another with black grouper. A traditional Indian Thali platter ( filled with small pots of chicken, fish and okra) is also available.
Desserts of chocolate tempura balls with curry ice cream and a light tofu cheesecake stick with the Asian theme.
Bottom Line: While the main restaurant has changed identities in recent years, it’s good to see the Setai doing what they are known for – upscale Asian cooking.