Travel

We took a COVID Florida getaway. Here’s what it was like

Bathing suit. Check. Phone charger. Check. Disinfecting wipes, spray and latex gloves. Check.

In pre-COVID days, those last items would never have been on our packing list. But in an age where masks are a derigueur accessory, an overnight getaway without cleaning supplies was unthinkable.

We were somewhat daunted by the idea of staying in a hotel. The Husband and I have been fortunate to have dodged COVID so far, and we’re not looking to push our luck.

But gratitude hasn’t quelled our wanderlust, and after months of sequestration, our heads felt like they were going to explode. We needed out.

Still, we proceeded with caution, opting for an overnight getaway within driving distance, with plenty of cleaning supplies on board. It would be a test run for a vacation season that won’t include the long-planned Arctic cruise or the theater week in London.

Some units at Island View Cottages in Sebastian, Fl., include a covered porch.
Some units at Island View Cottages in Sebastian, Fl., include a covered porch. Jane Wooldridge

Our getaway go-to in the Keys wouldn’t open until June 1. We weren’t sure we were ready yet for our next favorite, a Delray Beach hotel with a central lobby and communal breakfast.

We pondered camping. Online we discovered SUV tents that fit over the back of the open hatch like a glove, allowing you to sleep in the truck bed instead of the floor with plenty of sitting space under the domed tent. But we waited too late to book a campsite at our target destination, Sebastian Inlet State Park. We hadn’t yet bought the tent.

And let’s be honest: the idea of midnight tromps to the outdoor facilities seemed, well, less than appealing.

The compromise: a motel or cottage where we could drive right up to the door of our lodging without passing through a lobby.

Traffic was blessedly light as we powered up to Vero Beach, on a barrier island east of the Indian River. The motels there we’d spotted online wouldn’t accommodate our canine travel mates, Ziggy and The Coconut, but we’d always loved the town and thought we’d pick up lunch.

The beach parking lot was full. Shops were open. Hotels looked busy. An outdoor restaurant was bubbling with people hoisting beers — definitely not six feet apart.

No one was wearing a mask. We drove on.

Many of the units at Island View Cottages are dog friendly.
Many of the units at Island View Cottages are dog friendly. Jane Wooldridge

A few minutes away, in the mainland town of Sebastian, sits Island View Cottages, a dog-friendly little place right on the Indian River that would be our getaway base.

As we opened the car door, our host, Debbie, pulled up her mask — (whew!) — and immediately put us at ease. Island View’s usual personalized service, she explained, was suspended in favor or safety. We’d find our towels in a plastic bag in our room; they could be swapped by leaving used ones outside the door in a the bag.

Toilet paper, tissues and paper towels were in another bag, all new; they would be discarded before the next guest arrived so we were free to take the leftovers home. Though our cottage held two units, the other would be unoccupied.

The breezy little resort was a fit. Simple, sophisticated decor and an induction stove top in the kitchenette. Grills outside. Shady porches and hammocks in the garden, chaises near the river’s sandy beach and a long dock with chairs canopied with shade. Herons and pelicans fished nearby. Other guests waved, but none came uncomfortably close.

Foodwise, we had plenty of options. We brought our own breakfast cereal and milk and grabbed takeaway for lunch. Twice we dined at restaurants, both times sitting outdoors at tables more than 10 feet from the nearest neighbor. Both eateries made a point of practicing social distancing indoors and out; at one, the menu featured an in-depth explanation of safety measures that included pre-work temperature checks for each shift.

Kayaks and canoes are among amenities at Island View Cottages in Sebastian, Fl., on the Indian River.
Kayaks and canoes are among amenities at Island View Cottages in Sebastian, Fl., on the Indian River. Jane Wooldridge

But neither restaurant hosts nor servers wore masks. In fact, in the course of two days, we saw only a half-dozen people wearing masks. All looked to be over 80.

It’s been several weeks since beaches and restaurants reopened here, and locals may well have dropped their guard. Indian River County has counted 117 confirmed COVID-19 cases and nine deaths — a tiny fraction of the state’s total.

Fine for them. I’m not ready to go unmasked just yet.

But I am ready to return to traveling — at least to Sebastian.

SEBASTIAN GETAWAY

Driving time: About three hours from Miami in light traffic.

Where to stay: Island View Cottages is a collection of a dozen units in a beautifully tended garden on the Indian River. Units range from a studio with kitchenette to a two-bedroom, one-bath suite with extensive living space. WiFi, canoes and kayaks, grills, induction stovetops included. Many cottages are pet friendly. Summer rates start at $139 per night. islandviewsebastian.com; 772-589-5247.

Dining: Seafood tastes like it just came out of the water — and probably did. Recommended are Captain Butcher’s for waterfront dining, and Tiki Bar & Grill for casual noshing and drinks. Sebastian’s Roadside Restaurant for breakfast for lunch serves up first-rate chilli and burgers.

Nearby: The tony town of Vero Beach, several beaches and Sebastian Inlet State Park are all a short drive away.

HOW TO TRAVEL SAFELY

Drive or fly? It’s a personal decision, and even some doctors differ.

If you do decide to fly, check with your airline to determine safety practices. Most now require masks.

If you haven’t driven a long distance in a while, remember that it can be tiring. Don’t try to go too far in one day. Have your vehicle checked before you start out on your trip.

Whichever route you go, take hand sanitizer and wash hands thoroughly and often.

Are you safe in a hotel? Before you book, call the property directly and ask about safety measures. Does staff wear masks? How are rooms cleaned? Will housekeepers make up your room daily? How is social distancing enforced? Is outdoor dining available?

What about camping or renting an RV? Be aware that many others are considering those same options. Book camper vans, RVs and campsites early.

This story was originally published May 26, 2020 at 7:00 AM.

Jane Wooldridge
Miami Herald
Jane Wooldridge is a former journalist for the Miami Herald.
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