A storybook stay in a resort draped in a kaleidoscope of color

Maybe it’s that the pandemic has led me to find comfort in too many Hallmark movies peddling dreamy forests flocked with snow and icicles dangling from trees, but winter now transfixes me. When I’m longing to (temporarily and safely) flee South Florida’s perpetual state of summer, I daydream about bundling up, romping in the snow and sipping a warm drink in front of a crackling fire. One particular place comes to mind.

On a chilly, winter day in pre-COVID February 2019, when trees and mountains were glistening in white, I arrived at The Greenbrier, a revered resort nestled in the rolling hills of White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia that’s famously been around since 1778. Though I didn’t know much about West Virginia, I found there’s a reason that John Denver in his twangy voice, lovingly sang about its country roads and almost-heaven vibes; and while the word “glamorous” may not first come to mind when you think of the state, The Greenbrier epitomizes a storybook stay with its old-world hospitality and its close proximity to the nation’s capital that’s made it a longtime playground for U.S. presidents and stars. The dignified Southern mansion is a place where traditions run deep, dress codes still matter (meaning, you won’t see guests running around in their soaked swimsuits, and a coat and tie for men are required at dinner), and even in the dead of winter, there are enough activities to let your imagination run wild. Most importantly, getting there is easy, with a quick two-and-half-hour direct flight from Miami to Washington-Dulles, and another short jaunt to Greenbrier Valley Airport, located minutes from the resort.

The Vibrant World of Draper

The stately white house captures your attention the moment you sashay across the lobby’s black-and-white-checked floors, where you’re immersed in an explosion of color that will make any drab, winter day fade away. The resort is a photographic dream with its Hollywood Regency-style interiors. The Greenbrier served as a military hospital during World War II and was later famously redecorated by interior design pioneer Dorothy Draper, who wanted to make the hotel a “happy place” after the war. The result — every inch of the hotel is splashed in her bold and colorful style, layered with dramatic carpeting, patterned wallpaper, floor-to-ceiling draperies and upholstered furniture, and anchored by too many twinkling chandeliers to count.

Like a little girl, I giddily spent my first hours there wandering the halls, parlors and ballrooms, twirling on the ruby-red carpet dotted with florals and ogling the dizzying prints — from draperies dressed in a bright lemon pattern and tied in an oversized bow to the emerald-green, banana leaf patterns that envelop the walls and carpets. Staying there is like having a mansion all to yourself, especially in the off-season of winter, when you can cozy up in one of the quiet parlors with a book in front of a glowing fireplace, or simply gaze out the windows at flocked trees. You’ll also find those swoon-worthy Draper designs in the resort’s 710-rooms, suites, cottages and estate homes, along with special touches like hallway signs that read, “Quiet Please, It’s Sleepy Time Down South,” to remind guests to keep noise to a minimum so everyone can get their beauty sleep. Miami, take note.

Southern Comfort

The hotel’s storied past is still very much alive, with The Greenbrier holding true to time-honored traditions that you don’t find at many hotels these days. Promptly at 4:15 every afternoon since the 1930s, guests dress in their best and gather in the upper lobby to sip tea from dainty china and fill their plates with confections and pastries. Soon, a couple — a young man dressed in a tux and young lady donning a ball gown — glides across the floor, executing a magical waltz to live piano music. Like me, if it’s a performance that leaves you wishing for more, see it all again at the nightly Champagne toast in the hotel’s casino.

While the nostalgic ambiance encourages guests to linger, activities abound in and around the 11,000-acre resort. Snuggle under a blanket in a horse-drawn carriage for a scenic ride around the sprawling property; or opt for ice skating, horseback riding, falconry lessons, bowling, and dips in the indoor heated pool flanked by Corinthian pillars, which is attached to the only Forbes Five-Star mineral spa in the world. The purported medicinal properties of the area’s white sulphur spring waters have drawn people from all over the globe for more than 200 years, and guests can indulge in the spa’s signature sulphur soak that’s supposed to ease tired muscles and stimulate circulation, along with massages, facials and body treatments. Whether or not you’re a history buff, take time to tour the declassified bunker, an emergency Cold War fallout shelter that’s carved deep into the mountainside beneath the hotel’s West Virginia Wing. It was supposed to be a top-secret U.S. government relocation facility for Congress in the event of a nuclear crisis, and you’ll have the chance to slip behind the hidden doors for a fascinating history lesson.

Southern gentility extends to the resort’s 20-plus dining, bar and lounge options, so you never have to leave the property. At Drapers, an old-fashioned diner that’s a colorful ode to Dorothy Draper, you’ll find comfort foods such as a pot pie or fried green tomato sandwich, and you can also hop on a bar stool at the ice cream bar for decadent milkshakes. In the evening, join the men and women dressed to the nines for happy hour at moody Twelve Oaks bar that’s decked out in an elegant equestrian theme; for dinner, the main dining room sprinkled with custom-made chandeliers and stately columns offers an upscale menu of foie gras, a selection of cheeses, and entrees such poached Dover sole and crab cakes. You might even leave with a Southern drawl. greenbrier.com

Side of Snow

Just a two-hour drive away from The Greenbrier, through winding country roads in the mountains, a winter wonderland awaits at Snowshoe Mountain Resort, where depending on the weather, you’ll be greeted by twinkling trees magically cloaked in snow and a daunting 1500-foot vertical drop. Think 257-acres of skiable terrain with around 60 trails, and it’s a reverse mountain, which means the summit is located at the top of the mountain rather than at its base, so you’ll need to take the lifts back up for the après ski scene. Before the trip, the resort had inquired about my ski experience, to which I replied, “Miami-level.” I hadn’t skied since I briefly nannied in Beaver Creek, Colorado during college (it’s been a minute), so they enrolled me in lessons with an instructor. However, I happened to be there when a powerful winter storm blew through, and lessons were canceled due to conditions. Praying that my college-year muscle memory would come back, I decided to test the green runs on my own; after an embarrassing fall exiting the lift, I recovered and proudly pizza’d and fry’d my way down the wide runs, proving it’s attainable for any level. The stunning scenery along with breathing in that fresh alpine becomes addictive, and I found myself escalating to the harder blue runs just to keep soaking it all in. My reward: a rich, chocolate syrup-and-whip-cream-drenched hot chocolate at The Junction, one of the many restaurants and bars on site. Of course, you can also snowboard, scream like a kid as you careen down a 6-story tubing hill, embark on an off-road adventure tour, or splash around in the indoor/outdoor heated swimming area known as Split Rock Pools.

When the sun goes down, the night heats up with activities like evening snowmobiling tours and night skiing; or my personal favorite, an exhilarating Polaris ride to a backcountry hut for dinner. After signing a waiver, you’ll slip on a helmet and shimmy into a 4-seat, enclosed Polaris RZR, and then zip down a trail through a forest while taking in amazing views that few guests ever get to see. They’ll even allow you to drive, but with an impending snowstorm, I decided to let the experts maneuver the often-shifty trails. “This is where our tour picks up speed,” yells our guide as he guns the Polaris, and I quickly grab the “oh-crap-bar” to hold on as we rocket up a hill to make it to the other side. A few minutes later, though, we reach a rustic, two-story hut fitted with a living room, dining room and bedrooms, where we were greeted with warm appetizers and dinner served around a communal table. Sip a glass of wine or beer, while sitting by a heater; or if you really want to unplug, you can even sleep over for the night. After making the trek back to the resort, with my cheeks flushed from the cold and adrenaline-pumping excitement of the ride, I flipped on my electric fireplace and lazily watched the snow fall.

Whether you choose to hit the adventurous trails of Snowshoe, or relish in the splendor of The Greenbrier, a retreat in West Virginia will be the bright spot of winter, and maybe even 2020.

This story was originally published August 4, 2020 at 12:00 AM.