The show goes on during Fashion Week, albeit in new and innovative ways
Fashion’s light won’t be extinguished. While the industry, like countless of others, continues to be severely impacted, it is most certainly finding ways of clawing out of the hole, and with a variety of inventive approaches. From innovative films to clever (social distanced) runways, designers, models, photographers, videographers and the entire fashion tribe is fighting to come back stronger than ever, with July’s fashion week presentations serving as example. While most fashion houses aren’t producing shows nowadays, they may be giving us something even better – an unrivaled peak into their genius minds. We’re just happy and grateful to be along for the strut.
At The Top: Haute Couture Fashion Week
On July 6-8, the dazzling stars of high fashion debuted their looks in very distinct ways. For a house to be considered couture, it must meet specific criteria including creating labor-intensive, handmade clothes for clients at an atelier with more than 15 employees who also craft a collection of about 50 original designs that are shown to the public semiannually.
As one of the 100 or so approved couture houses, Balmain Paris merged a fashion presentation, runway and digital partnership into Creative Director Olivier Rousteing’s show. On board a barge that drifted down the Seine, the young designer honored Balmain’s 75-year anniversary with statuesque models standing on reflective pedestals in pieces from past decades alongside new designs. French singer Yseult and dancers entertained the public on shore while the show was live streamed on TikTok, a first for both the luxury brand and the social network.
Christian Dior looked to the past for inspiration. After WWII, with a short supply of materials French couturiers created miniature clothes that were displayed on tiny doll mannequins at the Louvre. The collections were so beautifully created that the exhibition traveled the world raising funds for French war survivors. Today, in a different type of catastrophe, Dior chose to create a magnificent, meticulous doll-sized collection. Le Mythe Dior, a dreamy mythical short film, which will certainly put a smile on your face, was released to accompany the collection.
At Chanel, a very short movie was created to spotlight a few of the collection’s pieces. Virginie Viard (who took the reins of the storied fashion house after the death of longtime designer Karl Lagerfeld in 2019) looked at this moment as an opportunity to do something she couldn’t necessarily do at a live runway show – like toss out the costume jewelry and only play with stunning fine jewels including sparkly tiaras and elaborate rings.
C’est La Vie: Paris Fashion Week
The couture shows were then followed by Paris Fashion Week, which ran July 9-13. One of our favorites was Hermès. The brand created a movie set backstage at its atelier during fittings as a glimpse behind the curtain. Its collection is strategically highlighted throughout the movie on the actors, (or are they models, or are they both?) who seem to be caught candidly going about their fittings.
Ciao Bella: Milan Fashion Week
Jumping to Italy, Milan Digital Fashion Week took place July 14-17. To show their men’s Spring-Summer 2021 collections, the Italians took it to another level. Ermenegildo Zegna created what it termed a “phygital” show where it began with models in a pre-recorded digital realm and then it culminated as they all step into actual reality for the grand finale on the roof of its Italian countryside headquarters. The entertaining “show” ends with designer Alessandro Sartori explaining his designs and inspiration to the viewer, adding a personal touch to the affair.
In what seems like the most controversial way to present a collection these days, Dolce & Gabbana produced an actual runway show. From afar it seems to be an ordinary show with high fashion garments, models and designers present however, upon closer inspection, all guests wore masks, their temperatures were taken upon arrival and all were asked to social distance. The live show, which was held at Milan’s Humanitas University, wasn’t the only one. Etro also hosted a live runway at Milan’s Four Seasons Hotel garden.
To honor its talented designers, Gucci opted to include them in its 12-hour livestream created for its Resort 2021 collection. The production, called Epilogue, was staged at a Roman palace to showcase the process of an advertising campaign through film. Each designer – whether they design accessories, embroidery or men’s ready-to-wear – donned a perfectly curated ensemble.
The process may be slow, but fashion is making its return. Already, the glorious quartet: New York, Paris, Milan and London Fashion Weeks have announced they will be back in the fall. Locally, look out for Paraiso Miami Beach, which canceled its July Swim Week but just debuted its schedule for a digital swim week and trade show. Titled e-PARAISO, the digital platform will run from August 20-22. A few live presentations will be held and also live-streamed.