Discover a five-star fall destination that even celebrities would approve of
Leaves crunch beneath us, as Odin, a gentle horse reserved for inexperienced riders like me, unhurriedly plods along a trail edged with trees draped in fiery orange and gold leaves. Pausing in front of a pond — where a fountain gently spews a cascade of water, foliage shimmers in the sunlight and picnic tables are topped with bright pumpkins — it’s as if nature (and a few humans) has orchestrated a quintessential fallscape. The air is crisp and cool, and my guide is leading us on a private leaf-peeping tour along the expansive trails surrounding the Salamander Resort & Spa, a Forbes Five-Star property where I’m vacationing for a long weekend.
The resort majestically stretches across 340-acres in historic Middleburg, Virginia, recognized as horse, hunt and wine country. Located just outside Washington D.C., it’s a storied hamlet where the Kennedys would escape to their home on the weekends (Jackie rode horses where the Salamander now stands), and where icon Elizabeth Taylor lived when she was married to a Virginia senator. Reminiscent of the English countryside, winding roads lead past stone walls, horse farms where thoroughbred horses speckle the landscape, and wineries that present views of the rolling foothills of the Blue Ridge and Bull Run mountains.
Last fall, just months before the pandemic, I didn’t know that I’d soon be dreaming of all this space and solitude. During a time when many are apprehensive about large crowds, the allure of Middleburg is the luxury of endless space to roam and boundless outdoor fall activities. And, did I mention wine tastings?
Unbridled Luxury
The Salamander’s elegance and architecture mirrors the nearby farm of its owner Sheila Johnson — a pioneering businesswoman who co-founded Black Entertainment Television (BET) and is one of America’s richest self-made women — and feels more like a countryside manor than a hotel. Posh but not stuffy, you’ll literally exhale as you sink into a couch or chair in the stately living room where dueling fireplaces vie for attention on chilly afternoons. In the evenings, it’s the best seat in the house to drink spiked apple cider, while watching a parade of D.C.’s most powerful trickle in for a steak dinner at regal Harrimans restaurant, or to clink glasses of Virginia-made wine at Gold Cup Wine Bar.
All 168 rooms and suites include an outdoor patio or balcony meant for soaking up the Virginia countryside. Uniquely, the resort’s guest floors are decorated to reflect the seasons, and fourth-floor rooms are dressed in autumnal-hued wall-coverings and photography of fall landscapes, and strategically offer the best vantage-point to peep the leaves changing colors. Vines of colorful leaves inch up the room’s balconies, dancing in the wind.
Living up to the area’s deep equestrian roots, the resort offers guided trail rides where American aristocracy has ridden throughout history; and in the afternoons, guests gather outside for a meet-and-greet with Cupcake, a miniature horse who may give you a nibble in exchange for a photo. Sprawling manicured lawns are dotted with fireplaces where families huddle at night to roast s’mores, and the property’s many untouched trails are meant for long hikes with your welcomed pets. There are days outdoors, where you may never come in close contact with anyone.
Immersive activities range from zip-lining through the treetops, clay shooting and axe throwing, and zipping off on a fancy Shinola bike for a cider and wine tour. Even the 23,000-square-foot spa offers room to breathe with an adults-only courtyard featuring an infinity-edge pool, hot tub and cabanas; a perfect spot to escape after a fall-inspired treatment like a rubdown with eucalyptus and pine oils. One of my favorite memories was soaking in the hot tub, watching the sun dramatically set behind the forest as steam rose from the heated pool.
Winery Hopping
While Virginia doesn’t garner the glory of Napa or Willamette Valley, with more than 40 wineries in Loudoun County, you’ll find worthy vintages to sip. Since the resort boasts a flashy fleet of Audis with drivers that will transport guests within a five-mile radius, I had them drop me at lauded Greenhill Vineyards. The family-owned working farm and winery uses 100-percent Virginia grapes and a French-style of winemaking. (Michelle Obama apparently favors their crisp Seyval Blanc, and their Blanc de Blancs, a sparkling wine that’s 100-percent Chardonnay, was recently featured in an Oscar’s swag bag.) After sampling six wines paired with a beautiful plate of chocolates in their tasting room, I grabbed a glass of their garnet-hued Ontology, aged for 8 months in French oak, and settled in a chair outside overlooking the rolling hills. At nearby Boxwood Winery, another top winery that’s owned by the former owner of the Washington Redskins, I gathered around a circular bar in their intimate tasting room, plucking at a charcuterie board and sipping their Bordeaux-style wines made with Virginia flair. My last stop was at bustling 50 West Vineyards, where live music ripped through the tasting room, a converted horse stable, that offers breathtaking views of the Bull Run Mountain range. They pride themselves on authentic Virginia grapes, and sampling their award-winning Aldie Heights Cuvée was a perfect way to end a day of wine hopping.
Finding Fall
Middleburg truly shines in fall, with many local activities launching in early September and ending in late October/early November. Drive the scenic countryside to chase the turning leaves or stop by Great Country Farms to snag crisp apples from their trees, pick out a pumpkin, and run through the adult corn maze. Middleburg’s historic village is within walking distance of the Salamander, and lined with restaurants, coffee shops, antique stores and adorable boutiques like the Christmas Sleigh, an authentic German Christmas shop.
Mornings begin at Common Grounds for a fall-flavored coffee on their sun-drenched patio, or at The Upper Crust, a tiny, cash-only bakery which is big on fresh, baked bread and decadent goodies like the famous cow puddle cookies. Grab a table at buzzy King Street Oyster Bar at happy hour to watch the staff shuck discounted oysters and devour a crispy fried oyster platter. You can’t miss a meal steeped in history at The Red Fox Inn & Tavern; dating back to 1728, it’s where the Kennedys and other celebrities have dined and mingled over time.
However you decide to explore the area, finding fall after the trials of 2020 will hopefully bring a new season of renewal.