Marking her grand return to Miami, Lorena Garcia’s life experiences shine through in her menu at CHICA
Chef Lorena Garcia’s enthusiasm is contagious. The gregarious chef, known for her colorful appearances on celebrity cooking shows and multiple programs on Telemundo and Univision, and for her successful eateries in airports around the country, is walking us through the menu of her latest opening, the splashy CHICA restaurant occupying the former Soyka space in MiMo.
“I’m super-excited!” she says. “This is me coming back to Miami after so many years.”
This is her second outpost of CHICA, having partnered with local restaurateur John Kunkel of 50 Eggs to open a Las Vegas CHICA two and half years ago. The success of that restaurant spurred them to create a Miami sibling, with its mélange of Latin American flavors and influences tailored to the South Florida palate.
“It’s the same DNA as the Vegas CHICA,” explains Garcia, “but we wanted to make each location reflect the city that it’s in. Miami is where I’m from, I live here. I love the blend of cultures here. I’ve traveled all over the world, so this is a celebration of the best of Latin America as I see it.”
The restaurant itself is a stunner, designed by famed New York design house Rockwell Group.
“With the open kitchen covered in wood and the countertops covered in granite and the arches looking out to graffiti murals, it gives it a very Latin American feel,” Garcia points out.
Gone is the neo-industrial feel of its former identity. Now the dining room is awash in a color palette of terra cottas, brass and rich greens. Large hanging lanterns fashioned of wood and leather create a rustic-yet-cozy feel in the double-height space. Tables of chatty guests are crowded with cocktail glasses, platters of whole-fried fish, churrasco steaks and baskets of arepas. The overall vibe is warm, comforting and, well, muy chic.
LATIN-INSPIRED COMFORT FOOD
The menu reads like a map of Latin America. It starts with the basket of arepitas that Garcia grew up with in her native Venezuela, then moves on to the raw bar offerings that fuse influences from Mexico, Peru and the Caribbean. Then on to the empanadas from Argentina and tacos that are hand-crafted from fresh masa harina, an essential ingredient in any traditional tortilleria or areperia.
“In Venezuela for example, our Caesar salad is served with watercress so I wanted to bring that peppery flavor to the dish with a cilantro touch.”
Even the Meyer Lemon roasted chicken comes with a backstory: “This is a recipe I created in my house with three ingredients I had on hand,” Garcia laughs, “Lemons, garlic and thyme. I had guests on their way to my home, so I just whipped up this marinade in the molcajete and this incredible dish came about!”
AN ECLECTIC PERSPECTIVE
Garcia is known not only as a chef, but as the author of two cookbooks, TV series host of the “Delicioso” segments of Emmy-award winning show Despierta America for Univision, co-creator, executive producer and host for Nickelodeon’s Food Hunters and a season 4 finalist on Bravo’s Top Chef Masters. Born in Venezuela, she pivoted from a law degree there to attend Johnson & Wales University in Miami, where she received a bachelor’s degree in culinary arts. In 2002 she opened her first restaurant, Food Café, followed by Elements Tierra in Miami’s Design District.
In 2011, she moved her restaurant operations into airports (currently at MIA, DFW and ATL), offering millions of travelers quick tasty bites at Lorena Garcia Tapas y Cocina. She also operates the Lorena Garcia Culinary Loft in Miami, which is available for private events, as well as film and television production.
“My cooking approach is fresh, modern and Latin,” sums up Garcia. “These are the flavors that I’ve grown up with, combined with all my travels and the techniques I’ve studied. Along with an ode to Latin America, the new menu is also a celebration of the Miami I know and love.”
CHICA is located at 5556 NE 4th Court, Miami; 786-632-7725; chicarestaurant.com.