Touring the world’s most enticing chocolate shops in one of the most beautiful spots in Europe? Sweet!
While Swiss chocolate found outside the Geneva’s borders is exceptional, a visit to the city is the only way to experience the sweet stuff in its true artisanal form. Excellence in chocolate continues to be a defining factor of Switzerland today. Not only did the Swiss revolutionize chocolate by creating the milk chocolate bar, they eat the most chocolate worldwide (150 bars a year per person) and export around 150 tons of chocolate each year, all within a nation about three times smaller than Florida. Exploring the city of Geneva through the lens of chocolate is an extraordinary way to spend the day, since it is here where it is created by revered chocolate masters the same day it is packed into the city’s many shops.
A SWEET STAY
Nestled along the stunning, crescent-shaped Lake Geneva (known as Lac Léman to locals) with Alpine peaks and the hilly terrain of the Jura mountains as a backdrop, this rich, culturally diverse, cosmopolitan city (the second most populous in Switzerland) is home to over 177 nationalities. Known as the “Capital of Peace,” Geneva serves as headquarters to the Red Cross, the World Trade Organization, World Health Organization, and the second-largest branch of the United Nations, after New York. Geneva appreciates the good life, something apparent with the abundance of luxury hotels, restaurants, boutiques, jewelers, and most importantly, artisanal chocolatiers.
With approximately 30 chocolate masters in town, most making exquisite creations by hand using original recipes handed down, there is a wide array of sampling to be done. Spend an afternoon discovering them with Antonia Rusinov, a former marketing executive who found herself in Geneva for work, decided to stay and call it home and created a chocolate walking tour called Local Flavours Tours.
“I believe food is the best way to explore a destination, and there is no food that represents better Geneva than, of course, its delicious chocolate.”
Rusinov is protective of her chocolate stops, reluctant to give out names of favorite destinations. But spend an afternoon with her and you’ll soon learn it’s not just the stops on Local Flavours Tours that make it stand out from the crowd, but rather the culinary experience paired with history and captivating storytelling that makes this guided tour a favorite in town.
“I love history, art, culture, but most of all I love to tell stories and anecdotes. So you will learn about Geneva in a fun and entertaining way, while of course, you will be tasting the most delicious chocolate.”
A HEAVENLY TALE AND TOUR
The first stop is Faverger, which opened in 1826 and is known to be the first chocolate store in Geneva. The glass pane door bears a whimsical design with hearts, cacao fruit and cows surrounding a simple message which reads “The Swiss Art of Happiness.” Inside, there are bookcases filled with memorabilia connected with the family-owned 193-year-old brand like a Swiss scrapbook bearing 100-year-old chocolate bar labels. A tantalizing bowl of warm, melted chocolate awaits in the back table accompanied by sliced fresh strawberries, bananas and marshmallows.
Rusinov recounts the origin of chocolate and the importance it had in Aztec society (a cup of chocolate was offered to warriors and newlyweds), how it was consumed only as a beverage in its natural, bitter form. It was only after it made its way to Europe that sugar was added to the drink. This is learned while savoring what is considered to be the finest chocolate fondue in the city.
Guests head to the next chocolatier by hopping on a mouettes, bright yellow water taxis that shuttle across Lake Geneva. It’s a fabulous way to experience the city like a true Genevois, and get an up close and personal look at Jet d’Eau, (Water Jet), the glorious fountain in the lake that is one of the city’s most known symbols. Created somewhat by accident, the original fountain (placed a bit further downstream in 1886) first served as a safety valve for a hydraulic power network used to distribute the force of the Rhône to the craftsmen and watchmakers of Geneva. It was so beloved by residents that it was eventually moved to its current location, where it reaches an impressive 460 feet in height.
The second stop [at DuRhone Chocolatier] is a hands-on lesson for the senses as guests are treated to chocolate mixed with ingredients like mango, blood orange and tonka beans (dried legume native of South America with aromas of vanilla, almonds, and caramel). Opened in 1875, it is said the horses parked outside this shop refused to move until they received their chocolate praline treat. Today, it is run by a 35-year-old Swiss novelist who grew up visiting the store with his grandmother.
The tour continues along cobblestone streets towards the Old Town with a stop at Molard Tower, a fortress built in 1591 to keep guard over Geneva. The tower was decorated with friezes and coats of arms of major personalities from the Reformation period, along with an engraved plaque honoring “Geneva, City of Refuge.” Today it has an added bonus: a wine bar inside.
Just beyond is the Temple de la Madeleine, one of the oldest churches in Geneva, dating back to the 15th century (and used as a holy ground as early as the 5th century.) Today, it is surrounded by quaint shops and cafes and is the site of worship for the city’s Swiss-German community.
Take a peek inside to appreciate the contemporary stained-glass windows before passing by Cave du Palais de Justice, Geneva’s oldest wine cellar in town. While chocolate and cheese dominate, one of Switzerland’s best kept secrets is its wine, most likely because only 2% is exported beyond its borders. The two main grape varieties are Pinot noir and Chasselas, a local favorite that pairs well with cheese fondue. Much of the vineyards are found in nearby Lavaux, a Unesco World Heritage site comprised of vineyards on terraces overlooking Lake Geneva.
A stop at the elegant and modern bakery Patisserie Pierre & Jean for an indulgent sampling of their award-winning Carmelia dessert (chocolate mousse with a heart of salty caramel on a brownie base) is next on the list followed by a lesson on the Fête de Escalade, a city-wide reenacted celebration marking the last war of Geneva. The festival (picture a Civil War reenactment, Swiss style) takes place in December to commemorate Geneva’s victory against the Duke of Savoy’s troops in 1602.
Rusinov offers a vivid recount of events which culminates with her own hands-on surprise chocolate treat tying into the historic date. Save room for the final two stops: one, Stettler, is heralded as the favorite chocolatier of the empress of Japan and the second, Philippe Pascoet, is housed inside the opulent Ritz-Carlton Hotel with chocolates resembling stunning colorful pieces of modern art.
Chances are, you’ll want to walk off some of the calories consumed. Just wear comfortable shoes and come hungry, and don’t be surprised if you may want to repeat the candy-filled experience again the next day.