From authentic to non-traditional, the art of dim sum is evolving in South Florida

I vividly remember my first time. It was 14 years ago, and having just moved to Miami, newfound friends invited me for dim sum at Tropical Chinese. Immediately, I was mesmerized by the rhythm of the rambling carts stacked with steamer baskets of plump dumplings and small plates of Chinese delicacies. Pointing and grabbing at what caught our eyes, we gorged ourselves and chatted for hours; when we left, we all knew each other better.

Known as Hong Kong’s soul food, dim sum translates to little bites which “touch the heart.” That may explain why the dish has become an unexpected but much-anticipated annual tradition for many during the Holy days. Its definition says it all: it’s a delicious, sharing experience that brings people together.

THE REAL DEAL

At Tropical Chinese (tropicalchinesemiami.com), a family-run restaurant in South Miami that’s been around for 35 years, pushcart dim sum is served every day. “What I want to give you is authenticity,” says owner Mei Yu, whose family hails from Taiwan. “The people making your food are 100-percent Chinese. This is what we’ve eaten since we were little, and we make the food to our family palate.”

On weekdays, choose from around 60 small plates, and on weekends up to 100, with classics such as har gow (steamed shrimp dumplings), pork siu mai, barbecue pork buns, creamy taro buns and pan-fried turnip cakes. Everything is made by hand and it takes a team of six to make the dumplings.

“You have to control the ingredients and know the best percentage of the mixture, so the dumplings don’t fall apart,” explains Yu. While it’s typical to share a pot of tea, Yu suggests sipping Champagne or a cocktail like their Carrotini, made with fresh carrot juice and gin.

At Yu’s latest venture, Hokasan, an intimate restaurant in Brickell, discover a healthy twist on dim sum. “I’m doing the same dim sum as Tropical, but my way, or really my mom’s way,” says Yu, whose mom’s “no fry” rule at home applies at the restaurant. Instead, dumplings made of wonton skins are steamed, boiled or pan seared. A real treat comes in the form of soup dumplings — the velvety broth is slurped from a spoon after nipping off the top of the dumpling; or share the oversized dumplings stuffed with Chinese leeks and shrimp.

In Broward County, authentic dim sum gems are tucked away in strip malls from Pembroke Pines to Plantation. Inside the sprawling, elegant dining room of Gold Marquess (goldmarquess.com), pushcart service is offered daily, with around 40 dishes that include the coveted golden lava bun filled with a custard base. At Toa Toa(toatoachineserestaurant.com) in Sunrise, dim sum is made to order so dishes come out piping hot; and locals-in-the-know come for the garlic stir-fried green beans.

BREAKING TRADITION

If you want to veer from the traditional (and price doesn’t matter), innovative dumplings can be found at ultra-chic Novikov (novikovmiami.com) in Downtown Miami. “We’re still embracing the Chinese custom, but adding our own spin,” says executive sous chef Oliver Lustado, who makes thousands of dumplings a day from scratch.

Must-haves include the flavorful sweet yellow corn dumplings touched with Spanish saffron; spicy prawn moneybags daintily tied with Chinese chives; and chicken siu mai stuffed with prized morel mushrooms and crowned with a black truffle. “Dim sum is an art and we take every step very seriously, from the quality of ingredients to the appropriate thickness of the dough.”

At Hakkasan (hakkasan.com/miami), the modern-Cantonese restaurant at Fontainebleau Miami Beach, dim sum is handmade by one of the finest dim sum masters in the country. With more than 30 items, unusual standouts include the pan-fried foie gras Shanghai dumplings or the basil chicken and mushroom puff. ($45 prix fixe menu on weekends).

And, dim sum isn’t just for brunch: For a side of scene, head to Hong Kong-inspired cocktail lounge, Tea Room at EAST, to indulge in their sultry Asian Night Brunch ($88 pp). The five-course brunch includes small dishes like Korean short ribs, a tuna tower and Thai lobster salad, along with free-flowing Champagne, wine and beer. Pair that with epic views of Miami’s skyline and a DJ — who says traditions can’t be broken.