Restaurant News & Reviews

This taco shop brings a Mexican mercado feel to Brickell City Centre

Quinoa crusted shrimp in a glass with agave chipotle sauce at Tacology.
Quinoa crusted shrimp in a glass with agave chipotle sauce at Tacology.

Tacology is industrial hip with lanterns inset with colored glass and offers elevated Mexican street fare with a focus on tacos. There are two dozen tacos to try here with stations set up like the stalls of a Mexican mercado for tacos, ceviches, juices, salads and desserts, plus a bar, to add to a fun environment.

Start with These Dishes

Order a bowl of seasonal guacamole with pomegranate seeds, which add tart-sweet pops to the crunch of toasted pumpkin seeds. They’re perfect with chips or tear bits off the light puffy piece of pork skin chicharrón. The chicharrón de queso is a crispy scroll of grated baked gouda cheese, great for scooping up one of three salsas. Mildest is avocado with Serrano chile and hottest is Diablo with chile de arbol. Tatemada salsa is medium hot, made from chargrilled tomatoes, onions and jalapeños with a balanced smoky acidic taste.

Creamy burrata, while not Mexican, gets earthy sweetness from roasted beets with caramel dressing and candied pepitas. Lemon zest adds a zip to the gush of milky sweetness. Delicate sweet crab meat on a tostada is dressed in citrus juices with mild aji amarillo mayo.

Share These Dishes

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Quinoa crusted shrimp in a glass with agave chipotle sauce at Tacology.

Chilaquiles are similar to tortilla chips smothered in slightly tart tomatillo sauce with grilled chicken, all oozing together under crumbled queso fresca and crema. Most tacos come two to an order, and the tortillas are made in house. Vegetarians can try mushroom tacos, a rich mix of mushrooms in a huitlacoche-infused tortilla. Each shrimp taco has one crustacean crusted in black quinoa and fried, served with a small flour tortilla in a tall shot glass in agave-chipotle sauce for a sweet, crunchy bite.

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Talla fish taco is blackened in spicy adobo with avocado puree at Tacology.

More traditional tacos include cochinita, a signature dish of the Yucatán with pork shoulder marinated in recado rojo paste with bitter orange, spices and musky achiote that colors the meat rusty orange and imparts an earthy flavor. It’s served with pickled red onions and habanero salsa. Talla fish tacos are a specialty of Acapulco. Here corvina is blackened in spicy adobo and tucked in blue corn tortillas with avocado puree.

Save Room for Dessert

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Corn pudding with goat milk caramel and vanilla ice cream at Tacology. NELSON TIRADO

The warm corn pudding in a squat glass jar is made from a mix of crumbled corn bread and corn kernels with cajeta (goat milk dulce de leche) and is finished with caramel with vanilla ice cream.

What Makes It Special

Executive chef Santiago Gomez grew up in Mexico City and became inspired to cook after delivering seafood from the airport to restaurants around the city. After graduating from Ambrosia Centro Culinario he was mentored by Thomas Buckley for a year at Nobu Miami Beach, then opened Nobu Mexico City before returning to Miami and opening the upscale Mexican restaurant Cantina La Veinte in Brickell. Touch screen tablets at Tacology bring ordering into the 21st century, though servers will deliver the food and check in on you from time to time. Cocktails are served in thick salt-rimmed glasses and ceramic skulls.

If you go

The place: Tacology Taqueria

Address: 701 South Miami Avenue, 4th floor, Brickell City Centre

Contact: 786-347-5368, tacology.us

Hours: Sunday-Thursday noon-11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday noon-midnight.

Prices: Starters $13-$26, mains $20-$30

Prices: Appetizers $2-$13, salads $12-$14.50, tostadas $10-$12, ceviches $12-$15.50, tacos $6.50-$14, desserts $6-$10

F.Y.I. Monday-Thursday happy hour 5-7 p.m. with half off drinks

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