Detour

Visit the Sudanese pyramids of Meroë

The pyramids of Meroë in Sudan, built of granite and sandstone.
The pyramids of Meroë in Sudan, built of granite and sandstone. Shutterstock

In the West, cultural narratives about civilization, erudition and technological advancement center around the Middle East and Mediterranean, highlighting the achievements of Babylon, Mesopotamia, Egypt, Greece and Rome. Conspicuously left out of the conversation is the ancient Black kingdom of Kush, which existed from 2000 BCE until 350 CE, and rivaled its contemporaries in advancement, mathematics and infrastructure. Those wishing to dive deep into the relics left by this prominent society can visit the pyramids of Sudan, where structures denoting the regality and reverence given to Kushite kings stand as a testament to their time. Pyramids, tombs, palaces, temples and burial sites can be found scattered around the desert and make for deep contact with history should they be discovered and explored.

The pyramids at Meroë are the last remaining structures of a city that was once a trading powerhouse connecting the lower regions of the African continent with Egypt and the Mediterranean influences above. Products from as far as Rome, India and even China could be found in the hands of merchants making their living through trade. The city, which was chosen as the kingdom’s capital following a defeat and retreat from nearby Egypt, was also known for its metalworks and military might. With plenty of ore, charcoal and the cooling waters of the Nile, iron workers there crafted spears, arrows and swords, in addition to farming tools like axes and hoes. One feature of Meroë’s history and Kush society that sets it apart from other civilizations that occupy larger roles in our cultural imagination is the role of women. After retreating from Egypt and its influences and building their capital in Meroë, Kushites returned to their tradition of female leadership, with kandakes, or queen mothers, who ruled alongside male kings, had their own courts and were regarded as land holders.

Visitors hoping to stay near the pyramids at Meroë, a four-hour drive from the closest major city, Khartoum, have one primary option when it comes to booking their stay. Those looking for a close to nature, no frills, authentic desert experience can stay at the Meroë permanent tented camp, a block of 22 canvas tent structures that are equipped with private bathrooms and shaded verandas. The restaurant on site serves a mix of Sudanese and Italian fare, and the location offers hot water for showers as well as providing internet access, despite its extremely remote location.

Those preferring a more well appointed stay may wish to visit the sites of the Napatan region, which sit at another point along the Nile. Guests here will have the choice of booking at the Karima Nubian Rest-house. While located a further distance away, this property boasts beautiful architecture and idyllic grounds. Well appointed patios for outdoor relaxation and fellowship unfold across the property and the area’s greatest topographical landmark, the mesa known as Gebel Barkal, is visible from the property, creating unforgettable scenic memories with its calmly imposing presence.

Napata was the capital city of the Kushite kingdom before Meroë, and was defined more by Egyptian cultural influence. While architecture, painting and writings were done in the traditional Kushite style, Egyptian burial customs were practiced and the worship of Egyptian gods over Kushite ones was commonplace. The spiritual and cultural significance dedicated to Gebel Barkal played an outsized role of influence within the region, with breakaway religious groups and influential leaders finding it an important site for the development of their respective ideologies.

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This story was originally published September 30, 2022 at 9:00 AM.

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