Wine: In defense of rosé
From time to time I feel the need to rise to the defense of rosé wines. They just don’t get the respect they deserve.
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You’re in a restaurant or at a friend’s house, and you’re served a wine — say, the opulent 2009 Charles Krug “Generations” Cabernet Sauvignon — that’s simply to-die-for.
From time to time I feel the need to rise to the defense of rosé wines. They just don’t get the respect they deserve.
Lemon juice, olive oil, fresh mint and parsley are sunny flavors from the sun-drenched hills of the Eastern Mediterranean where these products grow in abundance.
I’ve crusaded for years to convince sports fans that wines are more appropriate for Super Bowl sipping than the wimpy light beers in the TV ads. Now I come forth to declare that wine is also more apt than sickly sweet mint juleps for the Kentucky Derby, which is run Saturday.
It’s a little confusing to talk about this historic, top-flight winery in Spain’s Rioja region. Its official name is Compania Vinicola del Norte de España, or Wine Company of Northern Spain. It went by its acronym, CVNE, at its founding in 1879. But then fans, seeking something they could pronounce, changed the V to a U and began calling it CUNE, or coo-nay.
Jean Trimbach can laugh now —a little — about the fact that his Alsace region, on France’s northern border, has been occupied many times by Germany — most recently during World War II.
“Tradi-SHUN,” goes Tevye’s song in the, well, traditional Broadway musical Fiddler on the Roof. And you might think tradition says that, with Passover approaching, it’s time to buy sweet kosher wines.
True story: When New Zealand’s modern sauvignon blancs burst on the scene in the 1980s, American tasters raved about their literally mouth-watering acids and pungent, vibrant gooseberry aromas.
Like the rest of us, celebrities enjoy wine. The hip-hop star Drake helped fuel the continuing rise of moscato by rapping about it. Actor Johnny Depp has a tattoo that reads “Wino forever” (although it should be noted that it read “Winona forever” back when he and Winona Ryder were an item).
Great Bordeaux wines are not made easily. Or cheaply. Centuries ago the fine wines of that area were produced rather anonymously, without the grand chateaux names we know today.
There were lots of fabulous $100 wines at the recent South Beach Wine & Food Festival, but I know from energetic and persistent comments that newspaper readers are looking for a more fortuitous combination — pretty cheap and pretty good.
Ask Virginia Philip what wine she most resembles and she’s got the answer almost before the question is asked. She’s Gevrey-Chambertin — a red Burgundy made from pinot noir. Or, as Philip puts it,” elegant, powerful, but knows exactly what I want.”
Disney should make a movie about carmenere. Born in France of noble family, it was lost for decades, thought dead by many, killed by the evil phylloxera. Then it was found in exile in faraway Chile, living among commoners like merlot and cabernet sauvignon. DNA testing revealed its true lineage, and it now is taking its rightful place again in the finer levels of society.
As Miami prepares for the annual South Beach Wine & Food Festival, America continues its love affair with wine. The key: older aficionados are again buying more expensive bottles.
Ernesto “Nesti” Bajda’s idea is this: Halfway up the Andes Mountains the ozone layer is thinner and the sun is more intense, so the grape skins grow thicker, making darker, more flavorful wines.
Nearly 1,000 people smashed, squashed and smushed carambola at Schnebly Redland’s Winery & Brewery over the weekend as part of a contest at the Homestead winery.
Cupid’s holiday has always been a day of wine and roses. I can’t help you with the flowers, but some wines are better suited to Valentine’s Day than others.
Marc De Kuyper, 11th generation of the Dutch family that produces a rainbow of popular hard-partying liqueurs, didn’t exactly have a free ride into the business. He had to get the right degrees and succeed at several other jobs first. Finally, with an impressive resume in hand, he had to go through a series of formal interviews, business exams and psychological and IQ testing at De Kuyper Royal Distillers, which was founded in 1695 and has always been run by the family.
Wow. The street price for a ticket to Super Bowl XLV is reportedly $2,000 and up. Way up. And an RV parking space for tailgating at Lucas Oil Stadium in Indianapolis, where the average February high is 40 degrees, is $900.
Ask any good cook: When you make a complex dish such as curry chicken, you’re blending a dozen or more flavors — cardamom, turmeric, cumin, chilies, ginger, cloves, nutmeg, coriander, mustard, garlic, fennel, black pepper and others. Oh, and chicken.
Snow and cold weather blanket the Midwest and Northeast, and Miami is having its version of a cold snap, with daily highs barely in the mid-70s. It’s time for comfort foods – beef stews, macaroni and cheese, tuna casserole, chili.
It used to be that when winemakers blended two or more grapes into a wine, it was so the strengths of one could make up for the weaknesses of the others. France’s Bordeaux red had cabernet sauvignon for flavor and structure, malbec for its inky color, merlot for sweet and fleshy fruit.
It’s not easy being Alessio Planeta, traveling the world to sell the wines of his native Sicily.
It’s been a fabulous year for wine. Fans of the grape, whether Tea Party types or Occupy Wall Streeters, revolted and demanded cheaper wines. Sellers cut $90 wines to $50.
Beer for the holidays? Why not? It’s certainly in the right spirit. Kindly old Ben Franklin once said: “Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Wines and beers with South Florida ties make gifts in good taste
As New Year’s Eve approaches, the question arises: Where do the bubbles in bubbly come from?
Wine’s a great holiday gift. Most people appreciate it, for their future guests if not for themselves. At worse, it’ll be an elegant re-gift next season. You can bet your giftee will not be taking it back to the return counter.
Your friend/lover/colleague/boss is seriously into wine. He/she has so many bottles there’s no point in giving another. So what do you give this holiday season? A book about wine. There are lots of good ones out there. Here are a few I’ve come across:
When hard-charging former Texas Instruments exec Kathy Charlton offered Bordeaux winemaker Benoit Murat a job in her new winery on the Pacific Ocean side of Seattle in 1999, he wondered if she was serious.
Listen carefully. That slurping sound you hear is from all the wine tastings -- a score or more -- happening at shops, restaurants and hotels around South Florida each week.
In the rolling hills of Tuscany, where the sun casts a yellow-green glow over the landscape, causing the grape vines and olive trees to vibrate with color, every good-sized hilltop sports an ancient rock castle. In the Middle Ages they were fortresses, grim redoubts from which warriors under siege poured cauldrons of boiling oil down onto enemy soldiers trying to top the walls with scaling ladders.
"You can eat spicy, sir?" Every time I order in a restaurant in this noisy, steamy, teeming, traffic-clogged, friendly and fascinating city, they ask me that. With the sweetest of smiles. But I'm worried. What are they preparing me for? Warning me against? Is there some hidden national conspiracy to fry the foreigner's palate, then protest that they tried to warn me?
High in the Serra de Montsant mountains 100 miles southwest of Barcelona, an intrepid group of winemakers has banded together to take an ancient, fallen wine area and restore it to past glories. It's called Priorato.
New Orleans, "The City That Care Forgot," clings proudly to the cuisine that time forgot, its huge portions, rich sauces and decadent desserts, be they in the Creole tradition of the seafood gumbo at Arnaud's, the Cajun "paneed" (breaded) rabbit at Brigtsen's or the traditional French Poulet Rochambeau at Galatoire's.
A waiter at Picasso, the elegant restaurant in the Bellagio Hotel whose walls boast eight real (if minor) paintings by that fabled artist, reports that one diner recently ordered six $19 servings of foie gras with pear butter and pomegranate -- all for himself. As long as this gambling city attracts high-living high rollers like him, its boom in fine restaurants seems likely to continue.
It's a cool, sunny morning, and the wineries of the Finger Lakes Wine Trail, in the rolling, vine-covered hills that slope down to deep blue Keuka, Seneca and Cayuga lakes in central New York, are pouring samples of their wares for visiting tourists. The wines are surprisingly varied -- both familiar and little-known, tracing the whole history of the American vine: chardonnay and riesling and merlot; baco noir and seyval blanc; catawba, elvira and Delaware.