First look

The goods: Glossy SAIA (saya) at B Ocean Hotel serves upscale Asian fusion in a polished setting thats a welcome change from A1As usual margarita madness.

Ambience: A handsome marble sushi bar frames the open kitchen where chefs churn out maki rolls and staff the stainless-steel teppen grill (less smoke than charcoal with all the aromatic goodness). Eight-seat high top tables host groups, while window tables offer privacy and beach views. The grub: Chef Subin Chenkorsorn (the Delano) blends Japanese and Thai traditions at a price point thats in line with most beachside sushi dens. Small plates are about $12, rolls average $16 and mains top out at $28. Begin with one of 10 rolls with unexpected combinations like garlic hamachi spiced with jalapeño and cilantro. The abundant sashimi list is stocked with items like fatty tuna belly and Japanese mackerel. Large plates include fiery Thai curry lobster flecked with pineapple chunks and hearts of palm. Dozen of sakes are available by the bottle (two by carafe). Desserts trod untraditional territory with a lemon grass crème brulee and lychee cake. After-dinner drinks get the royal treatment with a slowly melting ice sphere. Verdict: Unconventional maki and sake cocktails at a posh spot overlooking Fort Lauderdale beach. Sara Liss, B Ocean Hotel, 999 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd., Fort Lauderdale; 954-564-1000