Wine

Family behind Estiatorio Milos restaurant seeks to raise profile of Greek wines

With its barrel-aged feta cheese, homemade thick yogurt and exquisitely fresh (and expensive) seafood, Estiatorio Milos has sought to elevate Greek food since opening in Miami Beach in 2012.

That’s been a mission of owner Costas Spiliadis: to show the world there is more to Greek cooking than gyros and modest diner fare. He has expanded his flagship Milos in Montreal to restaurants in New York; Las Vegas; Athens, Greece; and South Florida.

And now — like father, like son — George Spiliadis, Costas’ son, is out to prove that Greek wines deserve a place on the table.

The younger Spiliadis and top Canadian sommelier Elyse Lambert hosted a dinner this month at Milos in South Beach to showcase wines from the Spiliadis family’s Cava Spiliadis portfolio, which includes bottles from five Greek wine estates.

Executive chef Joshua Wahler showed a deft touch at putting out course after course of food that stood up to but did not overpower the wines, most of which were white. (Lambert noted that white wines account for about 75 percent of Greek wine production.)

A particular favorite was a 40-60 blend of indigenous Greek white grape assyrtiko and sauvignon blanc from the Biblia Chora winery, situated on slopes above ancient gold mines. Its notes of candied lemon peel and fresh grass played well off of Wahler’s preparations of salmon and tuna tartare and Greek bottarga.

Biblia Chora also produces a red wine called Biblinos Oenos that’s made from a mysterious, unknown varietal discovered growing on the winery estate in 2002. That retails for about $35.

Many bottles in the Cava Spiliadis lineup are available at Sunset Corners, Wines by the Bay and Vintage Liquor. Restaurants that carry the wines include Zuma, Hakkasan, Uvaggio, Mandolin and Milos. More info: cavaspiliadis.com.

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