Cooks Corner

Hyde Beach’s Thai coconut mussels demand bread for sopping

Mussels in Thai coconut broth, from chef Danny Elmaleh of Hyde Beach in Hallandale Beach.
Mussels in Thai coconut broth, from chef Danny Elmaleh of Hyde Beach in Hallandale Beach. sbe

There’s a grand sense of playfulness at sbe’s newest South Florida vision, Hyde Beach Kitchen + Cocktails in Hallandale Beach, where you can swing from hammocks, sit outside with a view of the water in open-air booths, or hit the indoor raw bar.

The food is eclectic and reflects executive chef Danny Elmaleh’s passion for cross-cultural cuisine, like the recipe here for wonderfully fragrant Thai coconut mussels.

The sauce is rich and flavorful, and once you’ve tasted it you’ll no doubt want to try it with other proteins, such as shrimp or chicken. Be sure to have lots of bread ready for sopping up all the sauce, or serve over rice.

Peruvian popularity

The richness of Peruvian cuisine beyond quinoa has made it a hot trend for foodies, discovering what we’ve come to respect in South Florida, with restaurants like La Mar at the Mandarin Oriental introducing us to unique foods and flavors.

I was particularly taken by the quick bean salad that accompanies the pork chops in the recipe here.

The beautiful yellow canary beans, which I’d not tried before, are rich and creamy and some say do not create digestive problems like most beans. They come from the Andean valleys of Peru and Mexico. I found them easily as a dried bean in my supermarket, but for the convenience of canned you may have to tap online sources or Latin markets (I found two brands, Goya and Inca).

The recipe is from celebrity chef Doreen Colondres, familiar to Univision viewers, author of La Cocina No Muerde and blogger at LaCocinaNoMuerde.com and TheKitchenDoesntBite.com. She was tapped by the Pork Board to develop recipes inspired by Latin American cuisine for PorkTeInspira.com.

Note: Colondres says you can season the pork and prepare the bean salad in the morning or the day before serving. If you can’t find the panca (I found the jars with no problem at a Latin market) you can substitute red chile powder. If you can’t find canary beans, also known as mayocoba, she says pinto or great Northern beans can be substituted.

Reader requests

Q. Love your column. No telling how many recipes I have clipped! I need help in finding the recipe for Steak and Ale’s Kensington Club marinade. Our restaurant closed (did all close?). My husband has been suffering withdrawal symptoms ever since. I’d love to surprise him with his favorite on his next birthday Hope you can get it.

Dora Warner Robins

A. Ah, I remember the chain well, with its giant salad bar, English pub architecture, dark woods and comfy booths. At one time it was franchised — and copycatted — all over the country, and then it went fantastically bust in 2008, when all the doors were shuttered.

The concept was the mid-’60s brainchild of Norman Brinker, who also founded Bennigan’s. There are reports that Bennigan’s CEO Paul Mangiamele plans to resurrect the brand, so perhaps there is hope for all the fans like your husband who miss the food (just type Steak and Ale into a search engine and join in the salivation. There’s even a Steak and Ale Facebook page with 57,000 likes).

As to the marinade, when I snagged the recipe in the late ’70s from a line cook it was in restaurant quantities — made to marinate four dozen 8-ounce steaks. I adapted it for home use.

The pineapple juice and vinegar do tenderize the meat. The recipe calls for a lot of sugar, which adds a bit of sweetness but primarily ensures a nice caramel burnish to the grilled meat. It’s the kind of thing you either love or hate. Frankly, I like it better on chicken.

Q. I’m hoping someone can provide the recipe for the goat cheese cake on a baklava crust that was served at the long-gone Satoro in Hollywood. The chef was Alexander Dziurzynski. I have searched for something similar for the longest time, without success.

Terrie Temkin, Hollywood

Linda Cicero: LindaCiceroCooks@aol.com, @TasteMemories. Write to Cook’s Corner at Food, Miami Herald, 3511 NW 91st Ave., Doral, FL 33172.

Thai Coconut Mussels

Adapted from chef Danny Elmaleh of Hyde Beach Kitchen.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger

1⁄2 tablespoon minced garlic

1⁄2 tablespoon minced lemongrass

1⁄2 tablespoon galanga, chopped fine

1⁄2 cup cream of coconut

1⁄4 cup fish sauce

2 tablespoons sugar

3 cups medium size black mussels, scrubbed

1⁄2 cup lemon juice

1⁄2 cup fresh Thai basil

2 tablespoons fresno chilies, sliced

2 tablespoons butter

Lime wedges and grilled bread for serving

Place the oil in a wok or large skillet over medium-low heat. Add the ginger, garlic, lemongrass and galanga, cover and sweat until aromatic and soft. Add the cream of coconut, fish sauce and sugar, increase heat to medium high and bring to a simmer. Add the mussels and cook just until mussels open. Stir in the lemon juice, basil and chilies, then the butter, cooking just until sauce is thickened as desired. Serve with lime wedges and bread.

Note: Galanga, also known as kah, is a root related to ginger with a more intense flavor, and is used a lot in Thai cooking. It can be difficult to find fresh, but Thai Kitchens has a dried version I’ve used often and it is available in supermarkets with a comprehensive Asian section. Fresno chilies are hot but not fiery – about as hot as a jalapeno. If unavailable, any fresh chili can be substituted at the heat level you prefer.

Per serving: 716 calories (63 percent from fat), 51 g fat (28 g saturated, 7.5 g monounsaturated), 94 mg cholesterol, 33 g protein, 32 g carbohydrates, 1.7 g fiber, 2888 mg sodium.

Yield: 2 servings.

Peruvian-style Pork Chops with Canary Bean Salad

Source: Chef Doreen Colondres for PorkTeInspira.com.

6 thick-cut (about 8 ounces each) boneless top loin pork chops

2 tablespoons panca chile paste

4 cloves garlic, minced

4 cups cooked canary beans, well drained

2 pear tomatoes, julienne cut

1/2 red onion, julienne cut

Juice of 2 lemons (4-6 tablespoons, to taste)

1/4 cup olive oil

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

Salt and pepper to taste

Season the pork with the panca chile paste and minced garlic, salt and pepper and set aside.

On a grill, cast iron pan or heavy skillet, cook the chops on medium high for about 5 minutes on each side, depending on the thickness. (You’ll need to add 1-2 tablespoons of oil if you use a sauté pan).

While the pork is cooking, combine the beans, tomatoes, onion, lemon juice, olive oil, cilantro and salt and pepper to taste. Chill at least 15 minutes before serving.

Per serving: 741 calories (53 percent from fat), 43 g fat (12.5 g saturated, 20.5 g monounsaturated), 156 mg cholesterol, 54 g protein, 34 g carbohydrates, 8.2 g fiber, 180 mg sodium.

Yield: 6 servings.

Steak and Ale Marinade

Source: Cook’s Corner archives.

1/2 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoons garlic powder

1/2 cup sherry

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1 1/2 cups unsweetened pineapple juice

Blend ingredients and pour over 6 to 8 steaks in a non-reactive pan. Let the meat marinate, covered in the refrigerator, for at least 24 hours, turning from time to time.

Per serving: 14 calories (0 percent from fat), 0 g fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 0.3 g protein, 2.7 g carbohydrates, 0 g fiber, 196 mg sodium.

Yield: 2 3/4 cups marinade.

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