It was Sunday night when my American Airlines flight from Miami landed in St. Kitts, and I was sure I had missed a step during the customs-and-immigration routine. (How did that only take 6 minutes?) Like travel magic, my suitcase was sliding down the luggage carousel right as I got to baggage claim, and there was a driver holding a Four Seasons Resort Nevis sign – just like the hotel said. I hopped into his air-conditioned van and made small talk with an older couple, expats from England. “We visited 13 years ago for his work, and loved it so much that we decided to move here,” the wife said as we moved from our van to a waiting ferry. “Nevis is hard to get to but impossible to leave.”
There’s No Cursing in Nevis. And More Reasons Why We Love It
In Nevis, the charm is palpable. There’s a law that says no building can be taller than a coconut tree. There’s another that doesn’t let you swear. There are no traffic lights, paparazzi, chain restaurants or fast food, but not for lack of trying — the Nevisian government turns them away to keep its local feel. In the middle, the 3,232-foot Nevis Peak pokes through the clouds, while those daring enough to hike it heal in its piping-hot springs. There are the botanic gardens, historic Charlestown, Lovers Beach, horseback riding, every type of water sport and so much more. Step back in time with heritage trails and a tour of Alexander Hamilton’s childhood home, now a quirky museum, or come back to 2018 with martinis at St. Tropez-like Chrishi Beach Club.
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Set against a mountain rainforest, cotton candy-pink and pale-yellow houses cater to always-smiling Nevisians, while the other locals — Nevis’ Green Vervet monkeys — mimic their demeanor and fearlessly mingle with passersby. Ask the former where to go for a drink, and they’ll all smirk and say the same thing: Sunshine’s. No one knows what’s in the famed Killer Bee rum punches, but the knowing smiles told me to drink slowly.
Rum punch or not, I felt right at home in Nevis. And that woman was right: I didn’t want to leave.
Where to Stay in Nevis
The 350-acre Four Seasons Resort Nevis has 196 rooms and suites, more than 50 villas, world-class dining, an open-air spa and unparalleled luxury. Sitting right on the Caribbean Sea, it has a world-renowned tennis program managed by Peter Burwash International and an 18-hole, championship golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones II. fourseasons.com/nevis.