More tourists are visiting the Arctic than ever before as climate change brings threats to the region into the news.

Lindblad Expeditions, which has been in the travel business since the 1950s, teamed with National Geographic in 2004 to offer special trips with National Geographic experts and photographers. Our Arctic trip, called ''Beyond the North Cape: Norway's Fjords and Arctic Svalbard,'' was a 16-day journey. We paid $20,000 for two, including a fuel surcharge of $130 each.

In 2009, the Endeavour will be transferred to the Galapagos and a new ship, the Explorer, will be used for two Arctic voyages, in June and again in August. The prices begin at $9,680 per person.

Included are all meals, kayaking, Zodiac rides, the guided hikes and wildlife viewing, use of the library and gym, and a high-def video as a take-home record of the trip. Cocktails and wine at dinner are extra, as are laundry and tips for the staff (recommended to be a minimum of $12 a day).

The Norwegian cities of Oslo and Bergen, where our trip began and ended, are expensive, and a simple evening meal in Oslo -- one pizza, one salad and one bottle of wine -- cost $144. We quickly learned to buy sandwiches in the delis and to pack lunches (bread and cheese from hotel breakfast buffets) when heading out to see the sights. In Bergen, we booked a budget Thon hotel that was within walking distance of the main waterfront shops and restaurants.

Lindblad offers several other Arctic cruises that explore Greenland, Baffin Island and the Canadian High Arctic. Details: 800-EXPEDITION, www.expeditions.com.

Here is a sampling of companies that offer cruises to Spitsbergen and the Arctic:

• Quark Expeditions has a dozen Arctic voyages that includes not only Spitsbergen, but the North Pole, and various routes taken by Arctic explorers when searching for the Northwest passage. Helicopter rides are included on some trips. Prices range from $3,390 per person to $33,390. 800-356-5699, www.quarkexpeditions.com.

• Spitsbergen Travel, located in Longyearbyen on the island of Spitsbergen, offers everything from dog sled trips to winter snowmobiling. www.spitsbergentravel.no/eng.

• World Expeditions has six trips around Spitsbergen, varying in length from eight to 20 days. The longest cruise includes Greenland and Iceland as well as Spitsbergen. A twin cabin begins at $8,182 for two. 800-567-2216,www.lonelyplanet.worldexpeditions.net.

• Nordic Travel is Russia-based, with trips sailing roundtrip from Moscow. The itinerary aboard the icebreaker Yamal includes the North Pole and helicopter rides. The rate for 2009 begins at $21,700 per person. Other itineraries go to Spitsbergen and Franz Josef Land. www.nordictravel.ru.

• Exodus, an English company, has Spitsbergen trips aboard two different ships. Eleven day trips begin at $5,910 per person. 800-843-4272, www.exodus.co.uk.

• Hurtigruten offers a five-day, nine-day or 16-day cruise around Spitsbergen. Rate begin at $2,800 per person. 800-334-6544, www.cruisenorway.com.

-- GEORGIA TASKER