Many cruise lines offer Baltic itineraries. Our tip: Choose the one that allows the most time in the ports that are most important to you.

Prime time is July -- which means prices are highest, but weather is warmest. Baltic cruises typically are offered April-September. Details below are for July 2009 departures from Copenhagen unless otherwise indicated. Most lines offer other Scandanavian itineraries as well. Prices are per person, double occupancy; taxes and fees add $150 per person.

WHICH CRUISE?

• Princess Cruises: Our 10-day cruise aboard the Crown Princess (about 3,100 passengers) sailed from Copenhagen and included stops in Stockholm, Helsinki, St. Petersburg (2 days), Talinn, Gdansk and Warnemude (for Berlin). A similar Princess cruise next July starts around $2,000. www.princess.com.

Our pick for best itinerary: Azamara, premium-oriented sister company to Celebrity Cruises, which offers offers a 12-day itinerary with two days in Stockholm and three days in St. Petersburg on the Azamara Journey (694 passengers.) July prices from $2,500. www.azamaracruises.com.

Baltic cruises ranging from seven to 12 nights are offered by most major lines, including the following:

• Costa: Seven-night cruises on Costa Mediterranea (about 2,100 passengers); those including Stockholm, St. Petersburg, Talinn and Gdansk start at $1,500 plus taxes and fees. www.costacruise.com.

• CrystalCruiseLine: An 11-night food-and-wine festival itinerary on this luxury line sails from Stockholm to Copenhagen and includes two nights in Stockholm and three in St. Petersburg. On Crystal Symphony (940 passengers). Prices from $5,340. www.crystalcruises.com.

• Holland America: 10-night sailing on the MS Eurodam (2,100 passengers) includes two days in St. Petersburg. From about $2,000. www.hollandamerica.com.

• Hurtigruten (formerly called Norwegian Coastal Voyages): 12-17 day land-cruise tours in the Scandanavian fjords; most focus on Norway and start from Oslo. From about $3,500 in July . Note that cuisine is oriented to Northern European palates.

• MSC: 7-night Baltic cruises from Copenhagen, with stops in Kiel, Stockholm, St. Petersburg and Talinn, aboard the MSC Orchestra (about 3,000 passengers.) From $1,299 if booked early.

• NCL: 12-night Baltic capitals cruises from London, with calls in Copenhagen, Berlin (Warnemuende), Tallinn, St. Petersburg, Helsinki and Stockholm, from $1,499. Aboard the Norwegian Jewel (about 2,375 passengers).

• Oceania: 14-night London-Stockholm itinerary (also run in reverse) includes Amsterdam, Bruges, Warnemude (for Berlin), Kiel Canal, Copenhagen, Gdansk, Helsinki, St. Petersburg (3 days), Talinn, Stockholm (2 days), aboard the upscale Regatta (684 passengers); from $4,799.

• Royal Caribbean: 4- and 5-night ''short'' cruises from Stockholm or Copenhagen. Four-night sailing with stops in Talinn and St. Petersburg from $499 aboard the Vision of the Seas (2,435 passengers.)

• Silver Sea: 7, 9 and 15-night Baltic itineraries on luxury ship Silver Cloud (296 passengers). 7-night Stockholm-to-Copenhagen sailing with stops in Helsinki, Talinn and St. Petersburg (3 days) from $5,916 with early booking.

USEFUL RESOURCE

Fodor's European Ports of Call outlines highlights suitable for port calls, along with details (though sometimes outdated) about getting from the dock to the town.

VISAS

Visa requirements change, so do your homework. This summer, visas for Americans were required only in Russia for this sailing; however, Russia visas were NOT required for visitors taking ship tours nor for visitors taking pre-arranged tours by companies that offer blanket visas (contrary to what some cruise lines will tell you.) Before you fork out the cash for an individual visa, check with your tour company in Russia (not just your U.S. agent, who may not have the latest update.) If you must have an individual visa, consider VisaHQ (www.visahq.com, 800-345-6541), which we've used in the past.

PRIVATE TOURS

In St. Petersburg, we used Esperance, a Virtuoso agency, with superb results. They provided a great English speaking guide, comfortable bus, VIP entrance at sites and access to special rooms at the Hermitage and Peterhof. esperance@esperancetravel.com; fax (011-7-812) 332-6411.

Also highly recommended by readers: Denrus Tours, www.denrus.ru, and SPBT Tours, www.spbtours.com.

In Berlin, we worked with Richard Campbell, an American and former U.S. government specialist whose office in the 1960s overlooked Checkpoint Charlie. If you're a Cold War buff, he's your man. Campbell arranged transport in private mini-vans from the port at Warnemude (2 ½ hours each way) to Berlin and the city tour for about the same price as the cruise ship's transportation alone. rgc2012@yahoo.com.

-- JANE WOOLDRIDGE