• The ship: The Pacific Explorer, recently refurbished, has new carpets, blue-and-white print fabrics, comfortable furniture and bright lighting. All cabins are outside, with picture windows, air conditioning and tiny bathrooms with shower. Closet and drawer space are limited;

With only four decks, the ship's onboard activities are limited. The lounge and dining room are on the bottom deck; cabins are on decks two and three. Deck four has a closed lounge and library at the bow, an open sundeck at the stern and an open-air covered bar and lounge amidships. There are no elevators, swimming pool or exercise room.

• Dining: The dining room has open seating, with a buffet breakfast and lunch and sit-down dinners. The food is hearty American-style with no frills, and the addition of some local dishes.

• The cruise: The ''Between Two Seas'' itinerary sails in November and December 2008, and January-May 2009. Cabins start at $5,299 per person, double occupancy. The fare includes all shore excursions, meals, soft drinks, sports equipment, bus transfers, taxes, fees and all tips. Wine and spirits cost extra.

• Who takes the cruise: Most passengers are between 40 and 60 years old and college educated. Some older passengers complained about noise levels at meal times.

• What to take: Bring only casual dress, with slacks, shorts, T-shirts and bathing suits. Waterproof sports sandals are essential; hats, sunscreen and quick-dry pants provide the best sun protection.

• Information: 888-851-8133 or www.cruisewest.com.

-- ANNE Z. COOKE